Longevity flower, Christmas Cactus bloom in winter and spring, now change basin, will affect flower bud differentiation, may not bloom at the end of the year!
The best time to change basin: after spring flower .
Osmanthus and chrysanthemum are about to come into full bloom. Now it's time to bud. After changing pots, you need to adapt to the new environment, which is easy to cause falling buds and affect flowering.
The best time to change basin: late autumn dormancy or early spring sprouting .
Just bought the flowers home, there is a risk to change the basin, and it is easy to die after the root is injured. It's better to first put them in a cool and ventilated place, and then consider changing the basin after a week of slow basin.
Pay attention to take the original soil lump with you when changing the basin. Do not wash or repair the roots.
Jasmine is just past its flowering period. It's just time to rest. It's better not to change pots in the north, let its branches and leaves bask in the sun, Lignify as much as possible, and store energy in the roots, which is good for winter.
If you change pots to stimulate growth and consume too much energy, you won't bloom well the next year.
Of course, if you have heating in winter, or in warm areas in the south, you can change pots, but remember to make up for the water.
The best time for jasmine to change basin: before spring sprouting, around Qingming Festival.
1. Generally speaking, the plants with vigorous growth in winter and flowering from May to June in spring are all suitable for basin changing in autumn.
For example: Junzi orchid, triangle plum, rose, camellia, hydrangea, gardenia, Phalaenopsis, peony, peony, vermilion, cyclamen, wind and rain orchid, etc.
2. Common green plants and succulent plants can be replaced in spring and autumn as long as the temperature is appropriate.
For example: Green pineapple, Chlorophytum, snake plant, bamboo, aloe, Money Tree, emerald tree, peace tree, succulent, etc.
3. Annual or perennial grass flowers are generally transplanted after cutting seedlings grow in full pots, generally in spring and autumn.
For example: Petunia, sunflower, Margaret, pansy, Nanking cherry, etc.
1. The head of the flowerpot is heavy and the root system is full. There are white roots at the bottom of the flowerpot, and even the flowerpot is broken. Then we need to change the flowerpot quickly.
2. No basin has been changed for many years, the plant growth is stagnant or very slow, the soil is a little hard, the root system can not absorb water, so it needs to change basin and soil.
3. If the root is black and rotten, take it out of the basin immediately, trim and air the root, and replace the soil for the basin.
The temperature of each area is different, and the time of basin changing is also different. Basically, when the temperature drops to about 25 ℃, the basin can be changed.
For plants with strong growth and developed root system, change the basin once every 1-2 years, for plants with slow growth and weak root system, change the basin once every 2-3 years, not too often, not good for the root system.
The flower pot is one size larger than the original pot, and the diameter of the pot mouth is similar to the crown of the plant; the soil can buy new soil, or the original old soil can be retouched with some leaves and pine needles.
Different plants, basin changing and soil mixing are different. Specifically, they can be divided into the following categories:
Monarch orchid, Chlorophytum and orchid all have developed fleshy roots, and grow faster. Flowers take monarch orchid as an example to give you a detailed introduction of its basin changing steps.
1. Water control, basin removal
Do not water for 3-5 days before basin change. Dry the soil and loosen the topsoil. Then hold the rhizome with one hand and turn the flowerpot upside down with the other hand to gently take out the plant.
2. Prune the root system.
Check the root system status. If the root is good, you can bring the original soil lump to the basin directly. If you want to repair the root, break up the original soil, comb the root system, and cut off the empty root, old root, rotten root and long root system.
3. Immersion disinfection
After cutting, soak the root system in the diluted carbendazim solution for disinfection and sterilization. After 20 minutes, take it out and dry the wound in a cool and ventilated place.
4. Soil matching
The fleshy root soil should be loose, permeable, or it is easy to accumulate water and rot roots after watering. It is recommended to use saprophytic soil, pine needles and perlite in the proportion of 3:2:1; red pottery basin is better for flower basin.
5. The upper basin.
Before going to the basin, first put a layer of large grain deer marsh soil or ceramsite on the bottom of the basin as a drainage layer to reduce the probability of rotten roots, and then fill 1 /3 of the prepared soil;
Put the monarch orchid in, the root system will spread naturally, one will hold it, the other will fill it with soil. After filling, shake the flowerpot gently to make the soil and root system combine closely. Lift it gently with your hand, and it will not loosen, which means that the basin change is successful.
Rose, triangle plum, gardenia, camellia and so on are all woody plants. Taking rose as an example, this paper introduces the steps of changing basin in detail.
1. Water control, basin removal
Do not water the basin for a few days. When it dries 3cm below the soil layer, it is easier to take off the basin. The root will become hard and not easy to break and not easy to be infected.
When taking off the pot, hold the root of the plant gently with your left hand, pat the wall of the pot with your right hand, and slowly take out the whole seedling with soil.
2. Root cleaning
Beat up the original soil of the root, remove 1 /3 of the old soil, and cut off the aged black root, coarse root and over long root system. Such roots will absorb a lot of nutrients and affect flowering.
Note: for plants less than one year old, do not root, and directly bring the original soil lump to the basin.
3. The upper basin.
After the wound is dried, it can be put into the basin. The soil is made up of peat soil, coconut bran, perlite and pine scales according to 4:2:2:2, and then one part of fermented chicken manure is added.
Pave a layer of small stones at the bottom of the basin, fill in 1 /3 of the soil, then plant rose seedlings in, and finally fill in the soil, do not use your hands to compact, let the bottom of the flowerpot repeatedly bump on the ground several times, the basin soil and root system can be closely combined.
snake plant, succulent and Money Tree are all shallow root plants. Their roots do not stick deep in the soil, which means that they are very drought resistant. If too much water cannot be drained out, there is a risk of rotten roots. Huahua takes succulent as an example to introduce the steps of basin changing.
1. Water control, basin removal
Don't water for a week in advance. When 3cm under the soil is dry, pick a sunny day and hold the fleshy base with one hand, turn the flowerpot upside down and slowly extract it.
For the plants with few roots, there is no need to repair roots, and for the plants with more roots, some old roots can be removed.
2. Flowerpot and soil
Find a red pottery basin or plastic basin one size larger than the original, and lay a layer of ceramsite, stone or broken tile on the bottom to prevent rotten roots;
The peat soil and granular soil are mixed in proportion. There are more peat soil and less particles in small seedlings, more particles in big seedlings and old piles, and less peat soil. After the soil is wet, it is dried to the state of tide but not wet.
3. The upper basin.
A layer of soil shall be laid first, and the particles of slow-release fertilizer shall be buried on the bottom soil according to the size of the basin, and then a layer of soil shall be covered after fertilization to prevent the new root system from directly contacting the fertilizer;
Use hands or tweezers to hold the fleshy soil. The root system will naturally stretch out in the soil. Then fill the surrounding soil with soil, fill the basin back later, and let the soil and the root system combine closely.
Don't water the basin after changing, put it in the astigmatism place, ventilate and maintain, wait for the soil to dry before watering.
The maintenance after changing the basin is very important. If it's well maintained, it will grow rapidly. If it's not well maintained, the root will be frustrated, and it may die!
For woody and herbaceous plants, if the soil is dry when the basin is changed, then immediately pour water through the basin after the change, which is the so-called root fixing water.
Shallow root plants such as succulent plants are usually potted on tidal soil. After potting, they can't be watered immediately. They have to wait for the soil to dry before watering. This is the so-called "wet soil dry planting".
First mix the soil with moisture, and then transplant the plants. This situation is conducive to ensuring that the moisture in the soil is evenly distributed. The roots of plants are not contaminated with water, but absorb water from the moisture formed by the surrounding wet soil.
How wet is the soil? The soil is wet, but it can't squeeze out water. Holding it in hand can make it into a ball, and gently pressing it on the ground can disperse it.
After just changing the basin, first put it in the environment with good astigmatism and ventilation to slow down, wait for the root system to adapt to the new environment, draw out new buds, and then slowly increase the light.
When changing pots, the soil will generally be mixed with some slow fertilizer, which is enough. Do not immediately make up for quick fertilizer, otherwise the root can't stand it, and it is easy to get fertilizer injury; when the plant has obvious growth, make up for fertilizer properly.
