From our perspective, location is everything. We peonies are long-lived perennials, and once planted, we prefer to stay put for decades. We demand a site with full sun, meaning at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. This energy is non-negotiable for powering our spectacular blooms. While we can tolerate very light shade, insufficient light will result in weak stems and few, if any, flowers. Equally critical is the soil. We require well-draining soil; our fleshy roots will rot if left sitting in water. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.5-7.0) is ideal for nutrient uptake.
Please prepare our new home with care. Dig a wide hole, about 18-24 inches across and 12-18 inches deep, to give our root system ample room to spread. Amend the native soil with generous amounts of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure. This improves drainage while also providing a slow-release source of nutrients. Avoid fresh manure, as it can burn our delicate roots. A handful of bone meal or a low-nitrogen fertilizer mixed into the planting hole will encourage strong root development, which is the foundation for future blooms.
This is the single most important factor for our flowering success. For herbaceous peonies, our "eyes" (those small, reddish buds on the crown) must be positioned at the correct depth. In the colder climates of northern America, place us so the eyes are no more than 2 inches below the soil surface. In warmer southern regions, plant us even shallower, with the eyes just 1 inch below the surface. Planting too deep is a common mistake; it will result in a lush, green plant that refuses to bloom. If anything, err on the side of too shallow rather than too deep.
After planting, water us deeply to settle the soil around our roots. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, like shredded bark or compost, to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but keep it away from directly touching the crown. While we are drought-tolerant once established, consistent moisture during our first growing season and during spring bud formation is crucial. Feed us in early spring as new growth emerges with a low-nitrogen, balanced fertilizer or a top-dressing of compost. Provide support for our large, heavy blooms to prevent the stems from flopping over after a rain.
To achieve maximum blooms year after year, you must respect our need for a winter dormancy period. We require a sustained period of cold weather (vernalization) to initiate flower buds for the following spring. This makes us perfectly suited for most American gardens with distinct seasons. Do not mulch us heavily in winter, as this can insulate the crown too much and disrupt the necessary chilling process. A light layer is sufficient for protection. This cold period is not a suggestion; it is a biological imperative for our flowering cycle.
