Summer is the ornamental period of taro, after the end of the ornamental period, into autumn and winter, winter is the dormancy period of taro.
After dormancy, taro will germinate again at the end of spring, but it needs to be nursed after autumn, including autumn tube, winter storage and spring planting, so that it can grow normally in the next year.
Generally, taro leaves will turn yellow from October, with withered and drooping petioles. At this time, it is necessary to control the watering. When the leaves of the taro are all withered, take it out of the flowerpot, put it in a dry place with good indoor light for a few days, and then carry out sand storage. The sand should be disinfected first.
The temperature of taro sand should be kept above 10 ℃, and water should be sprayed every half a month, but it should not be too wet, and the surface of sand should be slightly wet. It should be noted that when digging the tubers of taro, do not hurt them, or they will rot in winter.
In the spring of the next year, the stem of taro can be taken out and cut into several pieces for planting. The cut stem block can be treated first to prevent it from rotting, and then the cut can be smeared with plant ash.
When planting, you can choose rotten leaf soil, add some bone meal to make the base fertilizer, plant the tuber well, then pour enough water, and put it in a dark place for maintenance. Wait until the emergence of the taro can be placed in a half shade place for maintenance. It is necessary to keep certain air humidity.
In addition, when planting tubers, you can choose to face the tubers up, germination is faster, but the effect of growth is not good. You can also plant the tuber of taro with its back facing up. It will grow more orderly.
