Cutting steps: ԡ
1. Select strong, full and hardened (lignified) annual branches, or branches after flowering. Branches must be free of pests and diseases, and the middle and lower parts of the same branch are the best. To choose the skin is gray white, slightly wrinkled chicken skin (hemp color), and a bit thick.
2. Cut the branch into two segments and leave two leaves. Cut half of the leaves, mainly to reduce water evaporation, and cut the lower end of the branch into a slant.
3. Immerse the lower end of the selected cuttings in the rooting powder solution for 30 minutes, and then insert them into the fine sand. Spray water twice a day to keep the sand moist. Put them in the ventilated shade, preferably outdoors, with a higher survival rate.
Cutting skill: ԡ
1. Use a clean knife to cut off the annual semi wooden branches of the Money Tree. The branches should be strong and healthy, with a length of 10-15cm. When cutting, they should be clean and tidy. The incision should be smooth, and the lower incision should be horseshoe-shaped, so as to form the healing tissue.
2. Remove the redundant leaves, leaving only two old leaves and tender leaves in the core, so as to prevent the plants from dying due to water shortage due to more leaves and large evaporation.
3. Prepare clean river sand in advance, soak it in carbendazim solution for 1-2 hours, and wash it with clear water for several times before use.
4. Apply rooting agent to the cut of the branch, insert it into the river sand for about 5cm, pour it thoroughly, place it in a cool and ventilated place, spray water every day to keep it moist, cover the plant with plastic bags or cover the leaves on the surface of the river sand.
5. Generally 20-30 days later, the Money Tree will start to grow roots. After growing roots, you can prepare nutrient soil for transplanting!
Cutting method:
1. Cut the robust branches of the Rubber fig into 12-15cm, then burn the cut part on the alcohol lamp (or burn it in boiling water), and the Rubber fig will not flow out the white branches and leaves.
2. Cut off the redundant leaves on the branches and leave 2-3 leaves, so as not to consume the redundant nutrients. Insert the branches into the water, put them in a sunny place, spray water on the leaves 2-3 times a day, and change the water every 2-4 days. White roots can be produced in 8-10 days. (rooting by hydroponics can improve the survival rate of cuttings)
3. When the hydroponic root is 3-5cm long, insert the branch into the prepared basin soil, with a depth of 7-9cm, and keep the branch upright. Cover the cutting back cover with plastic cover to keep moisture. Spray clean water every morning and evening.
4. In half a month or so, you can grow a fixed heel, wipe off the extra buds, pour some fertilizer and water, and gradually transfer from the shade to the full light. Slowly will grow new leaves!
Cutting steps: ԡ
1. Select the branches with strong growth but not sprouting flower bud, cut the upper part into flat mouth and the lower part into ear shape, leaving two small leaves on the top;
2. Poke holes in the bottom of disposable plastic cup and fill the cup with vermiculite. Fill the tray with water, put the cup in the middle of the tray, let it absorb water slowly, or directly pour water from the top, let the vermiculite fully wet.
3. Insert the branch to be cutted into vermiculite and find a place with good light and ventilation.
4. If there is no water, add water to the tray, wait a few weeks, and the root system will grow to the bottom of the cup, and then it can be transplanted.
Cutting steps: ԡ
1, prepare for snow, blue bottle, transparent tape and foam board. Use a knife to cut the blizzard bottle as shown in the picture, and keep it intact.
2. Select the current Gardenia twigs, cut the lower end into a slant mouth, and the upper leaves can be kept. Then press the picture as shown on the foam board, and the foam board should be cut according to the size of the bottle.
3. Put the right water in the bottle, put the Gardenia foam board in the bottle, and let the lower end of the branch be immersed in the water. The water can be a little more, and then you can stop adding water. Then use transparent tape to seal the bottle. Just punch a toothpick size hole in the cap.
4. Put the bottle in a place where it can be exposed to the sun. The higher the temperature, the more water drops on the bottle wall, the easier it is to take root. Then you don't have to worry anymore. You just need to wait for the surprise. Summer starts to grow in a week or so. It's really great.
Cutting steps: ԡ
1. Prepared cutting media (vermiculite, perlite, peat, 1:1:1. Sand, plain sand loam, etc. are also available).
2. The sunward branch is the best one for cutting. The annual lignified green branch is the best one. Cut the branch with a sharp knife. Leave two half leaves for the big leaf and one bud for the small leaf. The length is about 7-10CM. The base of the cut branch is uneven and the tissue is damaged. Cut the damaged tissue with a sharp knife. Cut the base into a slope with one knife.
3. Prepare the rooting powder according to the instructions and soak the cuttings base. Use a clean (sterilized) wooden stick to drill holes obliquely, 7-8cm deep, and then bury the cuttings to expose the leaves.
4. Insert a basin, pour some cold boiled water or bottled water, make the substrate and the base of cuttings contact closely, and then cover with fresh-keeping film to keep moisture. There are ventilation holes on the top and places with sparse sunlight for maintenance.
1. Generally in May or September October, take the newly lignified branches with heel as cuttings, cut off the lower leaves and leave 4-5 leaves at the top.
2. The cutting medium can be river sand, vermiculite, perlite, etc., and 1 /3 ~ 1 /2 of the cuttings can be inserted into the medium. After cutting, water will be sprayed and shaded, and a brick will be padded at the bottom of the cutting basin to facilitate drainage.
3. Keep moist, take root in about 20-30 days, and transplant in 2 months.
Cutting method:
1. The cutting temperature of Hibiscus minor should be about 25 ℃, and the selection of cutting branches should be based on the semi lignified paper, which is not easy for the old branches to survive.
2. Cut it into 10-15cm segments, and then you can cut it.
3. The best cutting medium is nutrient soil or peat with good water permeability and air permeability, but other media can also be tried, such as pure sand.
Curing method:
1. The cutting medium should be acid soil or sandy soil with loose air permeability, good drainage and high humus content. If vermiculite can be used, it is best.
2. The cutting time is set in the morning or in the evening or in a cloudy day. The semi lignified branches are selected and cut into 10 to 20cm long. The lower end is cut into horseshoe shape and the upper end leaves several leaves.
3. Insert the cuttings into about two-thirds of the soil according to the plant row spacing of 6cm × 6cm, and then water the cuttings.
4. Pay attention to keep the soil humidity at 50% and the air humidity above 85%, not only to avoid direct sunlight, but also to maintain sufficient light.
Cutting skill: ԡ
1. Select a sandy soil land with deep soil layer, loose texture, good water and soil fertility;
2. Select the semi lignified branches that are born in the same year, and at the same time, they should be robust, full and free of pests and diseases.
3. Bury the cut branches in the culture soil according to the specification of 8-10 × 15cm spacing between the rows, and insert about one-half to two-thirds of them into the culture soil.
4. Pay attention to control temperature, humidity and sunshade. The survival rate of pomegranate cutting is as high as 95%, so in the near future, you will have red and large pomegranate eating system.
Autumn sowing method:
1. When cutting, it is better to cut the technical part of 1-2-year-old branches as cuttings, 10-12cm long, with 1-2 leaves on it, cut off 1 /2 of the leaves, cut the base flat and insert plain sand, 2cm deep into the soil, shade and moisturize, and take root 30 days later.
2. After rooting, the cuttings shall be planted into small pots with old pot soil. They shall be kept in the shade for half a month. After new shoots and leaves are grown, they shall be cut into small flowerpots with fertilizer culture soil and then moved to the sun for maintenance.
Cutting method:
1. According to the different length of cuttings, there are two methods: long spike and short spike.
2. Long spike: the branches with 3-5 nodes and axillary buds and terminal buds in the spring of that year were used as cuttings.
3. Short spike: it's enough to use 1-2 branches with a length of about 3-5cm.
Jasminum nudiflorum is the most suitable cutting plant in autumn, which belongs to the relatively easy cutting plant.
1. When cutting, select semi lignified branches, each cutting ear is about 10-15 cm, and insert them into the sand.
2. Pay attention to keep humidity after transplanting, and take root after about two to three weeks.
