In order to select the parts with strong ability to divide, it is better to select the second pair of stem under the heart leaf after jointing, so it is very important to select the parts with strong ability to divide.
The stem under the first pair of leaves under the heart leaf is tender and requires high nutrients, so the survival rate is slightly lower.
It's better to choose the cuttings with only one pair of leaves, and the survival rate will also increase.
The cuttings are obliquely cut into small segments containing a pair of leaves. The purpose of obliquely cutting is to increase the meristem area of the stubble.
Then cut off half of each leaf, because at the beginning of cutting, because there is no root system in cuttings, the nutrients needed are all stored in the original, cutting off half of the leaves can reduce the consumption of nutrients, which is more conducive to rooting.
But we can't cut off all the leaves, so the cuttings can't carry out photosynthesis and produce nutrients.
The substrate is slightly alkaline, with pH value of 6-6.5. Peat and some vermiculite and perlite can be used, and some carbendazim can be added to mix, and then the substrate is sterilized to prevent the growth of bacteria.
Water the substrate before sowing to keep it moist.
First, use chopsticks or wooden sticks to insert a small hole in the basin soil, put the spikes in, and then use your hands to compact the basin soil, and pour water.
Cover with a film or transparent cover, and make a few holes on it for ventilation.
Place the flowerpot in a bright but low temperature place, and it can be exposed to direct sunlight in winter and early spring.
The film or plastic cover can be removed after 10 days, and the cuttings can take root in 3-5 weeks. When the roots reach a certain degree, the aboveground part begins to sprout new buds.
When the second pair of leaves grow out of the new buds, they can be transplanted, and normal maintenance can be carried out at this time.
