How, did you feel itchy after reading it? To have such a grape trellis, first of all, one or more grapes should be planted at home.
Grape potted plants are usually propagated by cutting or layering, and propagated by seeds, the time of fruiting will be greatly increased, so it is not recommended to use. Next, let's talk about how cutting can take root quickly.
First, prepare the bottles, scissors, branches, cotton, flowerpots, sand, etc.
Two buds are left on each cut strip for cutting. When cutting the sliver, it is better to arrange the cutting on the bud, which will improve the formation of callus.
Fill the small bottle with water, insert the sliver cut into the bottle, expose two buds, and fill the gap between the bottle mouth and the branch with cotton.
After that, the whole bottle of sand is buried in a large flowerpot, only the part above the mouth of the bottle is exposed. Keep the sand moist.
In about 20 days to a month, a large number of roots can grow near the mouth of the bottle.
Rooting seedlings directly planted in flowerpots will be successful!
Generally choose 1-1.2-foot-diameter earthenware pots or casks to grow grapes, do not choose airtight flowerpots. One to two years after planting, pour it into a larger basin, cut off a part of the dead and tangled roots under the condition of keeping the roots together, fill the soil in a new basin, be firm and water permeable, then pour the basin once every three to four years, and cut the roots properly, so as to keep the grapes growing vigorously.
The nutritious soil, which is composed of 1 /3 of horse manure and sheep manure and 2 /3 of farmland soil (or aeolian sand soil), shall be filled in the basin firmly, watered and permeable, and planted after the surface is dry and loose.
Selection of suitable varieties of potted plants: good quality, beautiful tree shape, early mature and medium ripening grape varieties (early maturing species can be cultivated two times, that is, two harvest a year), such as: early Yan, Mei Zhi, Kang Tai, Sha Ba pearl, etc., medium mature species: Rose fragrant, white banana, red perfume, Jingya, Jingxiu and so on.
In the early spring, sufficient water is poured once every 3-4 days, once every 2-3 days from June to July, and once or twice in the dormancy period in December.
Water and fertilizer are forbidden during flowering. The grape is afraid of waterlogging. It must be watered randomly. If the humidity is too high for a long time, the root will suffocate and rot.
In the period of germination, flowering and fruit setting, sheep manure water (other rotten animal manure can also be applied) and ammonia, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are applied on the leaf once, especially zinc fertilizer is applied on the leaf once before and after flowering.
After a few years, you can use some phosphorus fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer, urea and so on to improve the soil. The amount of manure should not be more each time, but it should be fertilized as much as possible.
The average daily sunlight exposure time of grape should be no less than 4 hours, so as to use photosynthesis to synthesize necessary nutrients. Therefore, nanyangtai is a good choice.
Especially in the ten days when the grape trees bloom, ventilation is very important to help them pollinate. Otherwise, the fruit will fall.
The wind here is not just to change the ventilation in the sense of indoor air, but to have a certain amount of air volume and feel the breeze supporting the surface.
In fact, the pruning of grapes is very worrisome, because there are too many professional terms, so flowers are not explained here one by one, mainly sharing the method that a grape expert has found out by himself.
In the first year after planting, let it grow, mainly to cultivate one or two main vines; in the second year, select two of the strongest side branches on the main vines of the previous year as the main vines, so that a tree will form at least four main vines in total.
The rest of the lateral branches were short cut after 3 bud holes were reserved for each branch in winter pruning. In the third year, the main vine should be controlled after the necessary tree situation is basically formed, and the shaping shear should be made: all the branches growing in the current year should be regarded as the lateral branches, and in the winter pruning, three bud holes should be reserved for each branch to cut short. Follow the requirements of the third year later.
When the spring buds grow to 3cm, the middle 3 buds should be wiped out from the 5 adjacent buds on the main vine, and only 2 buds on both sides should be kept as the fruiting branches.
Among the 3 buds growing from the short lateral branches of the previous year, the bottom 2 buds (the 2 weaker ones in the inner part) were wiped out, and only the top one (the stronger ones in the outer part) was kept as the fruiting branch. The result of this operation is to remove about 60% of the future branches from the whole tree. To ensure the quality of fruit.
After entering winter, the fruiting branches (some may not bear fruit) grown in that year, except for the main vines, the rest of the branches, no matter how long they grow, only retain three short shoots after budding. The result of this operation is to slow down the extension speed of fruit trees, but also to extend the life of fruit trees due to the control of production.
The pruning in winter should be carried out from 2-3 weeks after defoliation to 3-4 weeks before injury in spring. Too early pruning will affect nutrient return, and too late pruning will lead to bleeding. Bleeding will cause serious loss of nutrition in grape trees, and affect the germination of bud eyes and the results in the same year. After entering the bleeding period, the pruning should not be carried out again. The pruning should be completed one month before the bleeding.
In the spring of the second year, when the soil temperature of the root distribution layer rises to 6-9 ℃, the root system starts to grow vigorously. At this time, when pruning, it is easy to cause bleeding. Although it will not cause death, there are more nutrients in the sap, so it has some adverse effects on the growth of grapes.
Grape is a climbing plant, so we must have a shelf for it to climb. I believe you can still remember the kind of grape shelf in the beginning, but that's not easy for us to do. So Huahua found several relatively simple ways to build the grape shelf.
leave the trunk 60-100cm, leave 3-5 result mother branches at the top, generate 6-10 result branches. Fix a horizontal circle frame with a diameter of 30cm with the trunk and other heights, bind the new shoots and ears evenly, and hang them loose.
The main stem is 10 cm short cut, 3-4 sprouting shoots are uniformly bound on the funnel-shaped bracket 100 cm high, which is the main vine. When the new shoots grow to about 50 cm, the center is removed, 5-6 leaves are left at the top of the auxiliary shoots, and 1-2 leaves are left for the rest. One or two fruiting branches were left on each main vine and distributed evenly on the funnel frame.
It's not as spectacular as a large grape trellis, but it's better than nothing, isn't it?
