Water is my lifeblood, and an imbalance is a primary reason for my distress. When my roots sit in soggy, waterlogged soil, they begin to suffocate and rot. Without healthy roots, I cannot absorb water or nutrients, causing my leaves to wilt, turn yellow or brown, and eventually drop. My buds, being delicate, are often the first to abort. Conversely, if I am allowed to dry out completely, I go into survival mode. To conserve the limited water I have, I will sacrifice my leaves and buds to focus on keeping my core structure alive. You might see my leaves curl and feel crispy before they fall. The key is consistently moist, but never soggy, soil. Check my top few inches of soil; I need a drink when it feels just slightly dry to the touch.
As a living organism, I thrive on stability. A sudden shift in my environment is a significant shock. If you recently brought me home from a nursery or moved me to a new spot, I am simply reacting to the change in light, temperature, and humidity. This is known as transplant shock or environmental stress. I may drop leaves and buds as I redirect my energy to acclimatize and establish new roots. Similarly, exposure to extreme temperatures—either a sudden cold draft from an open window in winter or scorching heat from a nearby radiator or vent—can cause me to panic and shed parts. I prefer a cool, consistent temperature and protection from harsh, direct afternoon sun.
Nutrition plays a direct role in my ability to sustain foliage and develop blooms. A lack of essential nutrients, particularly iron, can lead to chlorosis (yellowing leaves with green veins) and leaf drop. I am an acid-loving plant, so if my soil pH is too high (alkaline), I cannot access the iron and other nutrients in the soil, even if they are present. This is a form of starvation. On the other hand, over-fertilizing, especially with a high-strength, general-purpose fertilizer, can chemically burn my delicate roots. This root damage prevents water uptake, causing my leaves and buds to dry out and drop—a symptom that can ironically mimic underwatering. I require a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants, applied gently and at the correct times.
Sometimes, my leaf and bud drop is a symptom of an attack by pests or diseases. Tiny insects like spider mites, lace bugs, or aphids may be sucking the sap from my leaves, weakening me and causing stippling, yellowing, and leaf loss. Fungal diseases, such as petal blight or root rot, can also be the culprit. Root rot, often caused by overwatering, attacks my foundation, while petal blight specifically targets my buds and flowers, causing them to turn brown and mushy before they can open. These issues are often exacerbated by poor air circulation or high humidity around my foliage. Inspect my leaves, both top and underside, and my stems for any signs of these tiny invaders or unusual spots.
Finally, it is important to distinguish distress from a natural process. As an evergreen, I do not drop all my leaves like a deciduous tree in autumn. However, I do have a natural leaf-shedding cycle, typically in late spring or early summer after I have finished blooming. I will drop some of my older, inner leaves to make way for new growth. This is normal if it is a gradual process and only affects a small percentage of my foliage. Similarly, it is common for me to carry more buds than I can realistically support; a small amount of "bud blast" (buds drying and falling without opening) can occur naturally, especially on young plants.
