From our perspective, the timing of your intervention is critical to our survival and future flourishing. The ideal window for transplanting us is during our active growth phase, which for most water lily varieties is from late spring to early summer, when the water temperature consistently stays above 60°F (15°C). At this time, the sun is strong, and the days are lengthening, providing us with abundant energy. We are no longer dormant; our metabolic processes are accelerating, and our root systems are eager to grow. This surge of vitality means we can quickly recover from the shock of being divided and moved, sending out new roots and leaves to establish ourselves in our new location. Attempting to move us in the cool temperatures of early spring or autumn is risky, as our growth is slow and we lack the energy to repair damage. Transplanting us in the peak of midsummer heat places immense stress on our systems, as we must cope with the physical trauma while also trying to support rampant top growth. Please, work with our natural cycle.
You may see transplanting as simply moving us, but for the water lily plant, it is almost always an act of division. Our underground stems, called rhizomes, grow horizontally and continuously. Over time, a single rhizome can become a dense, crowded mat. This congestion is problematic for us. The older, central portions of the clump become less productive, competing with the vigorous new growth at the tips for limited nutrients in the soil. By carefully dividing the rhizome, you are not harming us; you are rejuvenating us. You are selecting the healthiest, firmest sections—typically the growing tips from the previous season—which are bursting with the potential for new growth. Discarding the old, woody central parts allows the young, vigorous divisions to thrive without competition. This process mimics how we would naturally spread in a wild habitat.
When you remove us from our current container or pond bed, please be as gentle as possible. Our roots and rhizomes are our lifelines. Yanking or pulling roughly can cause breakage that sets us back significantly. Once we are out, gently wash away the soil from our root mass so you can clearly see the structure of the rhizome. This will allow you to make clean, informed cuts. Using a sharp, sterile knife is essential. A dull blade will crush our tissues, and an unclean one can introduce pathogens that lead to rot. Look for sections of the rhizome that have several healthy "eyes" or growth points (these look like small buds) and a good network of firm, white roots. Each division should be a manageable size, roughly 3 to 5 inches long. Before replanting, trim away any old, decaying leaves or long, tangled roots. This directs all our energy into establishing new growth.
Our new planting container is crucial. Please use a wide, shallow pot rather than a deep, narrow one, as our rhizomes grow horizontally. Do not use standard garden soil, which is too rich and will cloud the water and promote algae. A heavy, clay-based loam or a specific aquatic planting soil is perfect, as it provides weight and nutrients without floating away. When planting, do not bury our rhizome too deeply. It should be positioned at a slight angle, with the growing tip exposed above the soil surface and the roots buried beneath. If the crown (where the leaves emerge) is buried too deep, it will rot. After planting, a layer of gravel or small stones on top of the soil will prevent it from dispersing into the water when the pot is lowered. The final and most critical step is positioning the pot at the correct depth in the pond. Initially, place the pot so that there are only 6 to 12 inches of water above the crown. This allows sunlight to reach the new leaves easily. As we grow and send leaves to the surface, you can gradually lower the pot to its final depth.
