As a water lily, my existence is tied to the warmth of the sun and the heat of the water. When autumn arrives and the sunlight weakens, I receive a clear signal from my environment: it is time to prepare for dormancy. My vibrant leaves will begin to yellow and soften. This is not a sign of sickness, but a natural process. I am drawing energy back from my foliage and channeling it into my most vital part, the rhizome, which rests in the mud at the bottom of the pond. This tuberous stem is my lifeline, my stored food bank, and my promise of spring. My metabolism slows to a near halt, and I enter a state of suspended animation to survive the freezing temperatures that would otherwise destroy my delicate tissues.
If I am living in a pond that is deep enough to avoid freezing solid, this is my preferred way to overwinter. The key is depth. The water must be at least 18 to 24 inches below the freeze line. At this depth, the water temperature will remain a stable, non-freezing 40°F (4°C) or so, even if a thick layer of ice forms on the surface. This stable, cold environment is perfect for my dormancy. Before the hard frosts come, your job is to trim away my dying foliage and stems down to about an inch above the crown (the growing point of my rhizome). This is crucial, as decaying plant matter in the water can foul the water and create harmful gases under the ice. Once I am trimmed, I can be left to rest. If a complete ice-over is expected, a pond heater or de-icer can be used to maintain an open hole in the ice, which allows for gas exchange and is beneficial for any fish that may be my pond-mates.
If my home is a shallow container pond or a water feature that will freeze completely, I cannot survive there. I need to be moved indoors. After my foliage has been blackened by the first frost, carefully lift my container from the pond. You will notice my rhizome, which may look like a strange, knobby potato. Trim all my stems and leaves back to the crown. Gently rinse the rhizome and the roots with a hose to remove any pond debris or pests. Now, I need a cool, dark, and damp environment that mimics the bottom of a pond. Place my rhizome in a plastic bag or container filled with slightly damp (not wet) peat moss, sand, or vermiculite. The goal is to prevent me from drying out completely, but not to let me sit in water, which could cause rot. The storage temperature is critical; I must be kept between 40-50°F (5-10°C). A cool basement, an unheated garage, or a refrigerator are suitable locations. Check on me periodically through the winter to ensure my storage medium is still slightly moist.
My internal clock is tuned to the lengthening days and rising temperatures. When spring arrives and the danger of hard frost has passed, it is time for me to be awakened. For lilies overwintered in the deep pond, the process is simple; as the water warms, I will naturally send up new shoots. For those of us stored indoors, the transition must be gradual. Bring my container out of storage and inspect my rhizome. It should be firm. If there are any soft, mushy spots, you can carefully cut them away. Place my pot in a shallow container of warm water in a sunny location to encourage new growth. Once I have developed several small pads and the pond water has warmed significantly, I can be gradually acclimated back to my pond depth over a week or so. Soon, I will be ready to unfurl my new leaves and prepare for another season of beautiful blooms, grateful for the careful winter care that allowed me to survive.
