From my perspective as a running bamboo, my invasive nature is not malice, but a highly successful survival strategy. My life force is concentrated underground in a network of stems called rhizomes. Unlike the compact, clumping rhizomes of my well-behaved cousins, my rhizomes are leptomorph, meaning they run horizontally, often far from the parent plant. These rhizomes are storage organs, packed with energy reserves that allow me to rapidly produce new shoots, called culms, at nodes along their length. I do not wait for ideal conditions; I explore and colonize new territory relentlessly. My sole purpose is to capture space and sunlight, and my running growth form is exceptionally effective at achieving this, especially in the fertile, disturbed soils of gardens and landscapes.
The most effective long-term strategy to control me is to physically block my rhizomes before planting. This requires a specialized, high-density polyethylene rhizome barrier, installed vertically around the intended planting area. The barrier must be at least 60-80 centimeters deep to prevent my rhizomes from diving underneath it. It is crucial that the barrier protrudes about 5 centimeters above the soil surface to catch any shallow runners attempting to climb over. The ends of the barrier must overlap and be tightly sealed to prevent a single rhizome from finding the weak point. Even with a barrier, you must remain vigilant, inspecting the top edge annually for any escape attempts. This method does not remove me, but it creates a defined prison from which I cannot easily breach.
If I am already established, you can attempt to contain and weaken me through persistent rhizome pruning. This process, often called the "grove method," involves defining a boundary around the bamboo you wish to keep. Each year, preferably in late spring or early summer after the shooting season, you must dig a trench approximately 30-40 centimeters deep around this boundary. As you dig, you will sever my advancing rhizomes. You must then reach into the trench and cut away any rhizomes crossing the line. This annual pruning starves the outer sections of the grove of energy from the main plant, eventually causing them to die. It is a labor-intensive process that mimics natural barriers like pathways or foundations, but it requires unwavering annual commitment.
To remove me entirely, you must attack my energy source. The green culms (canes) above ground are my solar panels, converting sunlight into energy that is stored in the rhizomes. The strategy is simple: repeatedly cut off all new shoots as they emerge and consistently cut down all existing culms. By preventing photosynthesis, you force the rhizome system to consume its stored energy to produce new shoots. Without the ability to regenerate leaves, the rhizomes will eventually exhaust their reserves and die. This is a war of attrition that can take two to five years. You must be ruthless; allowing even a few shoots to mature will replenish the rhizomes and reset the process. For larger areas, regular mowing to ground level can achieve the same exhausting effect.
When physical methods are insufficient, herbicides like glyphosate can be used as a targeted last resort. However, this is not a simple spray-and-kill solution. The most effective technique is the "cut-stem" method. You should cut my culms down close to the ground and then immediately apply a concentrated herbicide to the freshly cut stump. The open vascular system of the stump will translocate the herbicide down into the rhizome network. This method is more effective and environmentally responsible than foliar spraying, as it minimizes chemical drift onto other plants. It may require multiple applications over a season or two to completely kill the extensive rhizome system. Always consider the impact on the surrounding ecosystem before choosing this path.
