First, it is crucial to understand that I am not dying; I am entering a period of dormancy. As a tuberous Begonia, my life cycle is dictated by the seasons. When the daylight shortens and temperatures drop outdoors, I receive a clear signal to conserve energy. My vibrant blooms will fade, and my beautiful foliage will begin to yellow and wither. This is a natural and necessary process. You might be tempted to keep me growing with fertilizer and extra water, but this would be counterproductive. It would force me to expend precious energy on weak, etiolated growth when what I truly need is a deep, restorative rest. My goal during this time is to redirect all my resources inward, down to my tuber (my energy-storing root), where I will wait patiently for the return of longer, warmer days.
Before the first frost arrives, you must bring me inside. The process should be gradual to avoid shock. Please stop fertilizing me about a month before the planned move. This ensures I am not actively producing soft, new growth that is highly susceptible to damage. As my leaves start to yellow naturally, gradually reduce the frequency of your watering. Do not cut my stems back while they are still green, as I am actively drawing energy back into my tuber. Once the foliage has yellowed significantly or has been blackened by a light frost, you can then carefully cut the stems back to about 1-2 inches above the soil line. Be gentle when lifting my tuber from the pot or ground; brush off the excess soil but do not wash it, as I need to dry properly to prevent rot.
My winter home does not need to be bright or warm. In fact, I prefer a cool, dark, and dry environment that mimics the conditions I would experience underground in my natural habitat. A basement, an unheated garage (that does not freeze), or a cool closet is perfect. The ideal temperature range for my slumber is between 45-55°F (7-13°C). Temperatures that are too warm will cause me to break dormancy prematurely, leading to weak, spindly shoots before there is sufficient light to sustain them. It is also vital that my storage area has good air circulation to prevent the growth of mold and fungi on my tuber. Please ensure I am placed away from ripening fruit, as the ethylene gas they emit can disrupt my rest.
My needs during winter are minimal, but they are critical for my survival. There are two main methods for storing me. The first is to leave my tuber in its pot of dry soil. After you have cut back my stems, place the entire pot in my chosen storage location. The second method is to store my bare tuber. After drying for a few days in a well-ventilated area, place me in a container filled with slightly moistened peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust. The key word is "slightly"—the medium should feel just damp to the touch, not wet. Throughout the winter, you should check on me monthly. Look for any signs of shriveling (which indicates I am too dry) or soft, mushy spots (which indicate rot from too much moisture). If I am shriveling, you can very lightly mist the storage medium. If I show signs of rot, you may need to cut away the affected area and dust the wound with sulfur powder to prevent further decay.
As winter wanes and you notice the days growing consistently longer, usually in late February or March, it will be time to wake me up. Bring my pot or tuber out of storage and place me in a warm, bright spot with indirect light. If I was stored bare, you can pot me up in fresh, well-draining potting mix with the hollow side of my tuber facing up. Begin watering me very lightly, just enough to moisten the soil. The combination of warmth and moisture will signal to me that it is time to grow. Soon, you will see small, pinkish buds emerging from the top of my tuber. As these buds develop into stems and leaves, you can gradually increase watering and, once I have a good set of leaves, begin a regular fertilizing schedule to support a new season of lush growth and spectacular blooms.
