From our perspective, the green foliage we produce throughout the spring and summer is not merely decorative; it is our entire life support and energy production system. Through the process of photosynthesis, our leaves capture sunlight and convert it into carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are not just used for immediate growth and flowering. After our beautiful blooms have faded, this energy production shifts into a critical phase: storage. We begin the diligent work of sending these manufactured sugars down to our storage organs—the thick, fleshy roots and especially the crown at our base. This stored energy is the absolute essential fuel that powers our survival through winter dormancy and, most importantly, the explosive growth and flower production you enjoy the following spring.
The single most important instruction we can give you is on timing. Cutting our foliage back too early is catastrophic to our health and future blooms, as it severs our energy supply prematurely. You must wait until we have clearly entered our dormant state. The key signal is a dramatic change in our appearance. Wait until after the first hard frost has blackened or turned our foliage a yellowish-brown. This visual change is the external sign that we have completed the process of drawing all possible energy back into our roots and have shut down for the season. The leaves have served their purpose and are now senescent. At this point, which is typically in late October or November depending on your climate, it is safe to proceed.
When you perform the cutback, your technique matters greatly to our well-being. Please use sharp, clean pruning shears or scissors. Blunt tools can crush our stems and create ragged wounds that are more susceptible to disease. More critically, you must disinfect your tools with a solution of rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach mix before moving from one plant to the next. This prevents the potential spread of any fungal spores or diseases, such as Botrytis, which might be present on our foliage even if not visible to you. Cut our stems down to within just an inch or two above the ground. Take care not to damage the visible, reddish-pink buds (the "eyes") on our crown, as these are the nascent shoots for next year's growth.
After you have cut our stems, your job is not quite finished. Do not leave the discarded foliage lying on the ground around our base. This old foliage can harbor fungal pathogens and pests over the winter, creating a source of infection for us when we emerge in the spring. You must gather and remove all of this debris from the garden area, disposing of it with your household waste or hot compost—do not cold compost it, as this may not kill any lingering diseases. Once we are cut back and cleaned up, you may apply a light, loose mulch (like shredded leaves or pine needles) over our crown after the ground has frozen. This helps to regulate soil temperature and prevent heaving from freeze-thaw cycles, protecting our delicate root system as we rest.
