From our perspective, the dropping temperatures and shorter days are not an attack but a signal. It is a command to enter a state of dormancy. This is our survival strategy. We gradually halt active growth, conserving our energy within our core structures—the crown, the canes, and the roots deep in the earth. Our metabolism slows to a near standstill. A gardener's help in facilitating this process is crucial; please stop fertilizing us in late summer. Fertilizer encourages tender new growth that is highly susceptible to freeze damage, wasting precious energy we need to store for spring.
While we may appear dormant above ground, our root systems remain alive and active throughout the winter. The greatest threat we face during this time is not merely the cold air, but desiccation—drying out. Frozen soil and cold, dry winds can prevent our roots from drawing up water, while those same winds pull moisture from our canes. This causes us to dry out and die. A deep, thorough watering of the soil around our base before the ground freezes is essential. This provides a critical reservoir of moisture for our roots to access during periods of freeze.
Our most vital parts are below the soil line. The goal is to keep the soil consistently cold, preventing the damaging cycle of freeze-thaw-freeze that can heave our roots from the ground and sever them. After a few hard frosts, apply a thick, loose layer of mulch around our base. Materials like straw, shredded leaves, or compost are ideal. Pile it up to 12 inches high, covering the graft union (the knobby bump where the canes meet the roots). This mound of mulch acts like a blanket, insulating the soil and regulating its temperature to protect our heart from the extreme cold.
Our above-ground canes are vulnerable to winter burn from harsh, drying winds and intense winter sun. For taller rose varieties, a simple windbreak can be constructed by driving stakes into the ground around us and wrapping them with burlap. This barrier breaks the wind and provides partial shade. For climbers tied to a structure, it is helpful to untie us and gently lay the canes on the ground, covering them with mulch or soil. In extremely cold climates, some gardeners use rose cones, but they must be vented at the top to prevent heat buildup on sunny days, which would break our dormancy prematurely.
As the sun strengthens and temperatures begin to moderate in late winter or early spring, your care must shift again. It is vital that you remove the protective mulch and any other coverings gradually. Do this in stages as the risk of hard frost diminishes. If you uncover us too early, a sudden late freeze can severely damage the tender new growth we are about to produce. Conversely, leaving the mulch on too long can trap moisture and promote fungal growth on our canes. Watch the weather and remove the protection slowly, allowing us to acclimate to the new season safely.
