From our perspective, timing is everything. Our primary goal is to minimize stress and conserve energy for a successful move. The ideal time for this transition is during our dormant period. In most climates, this is in late winter or very early spring, just as the ground becomes workable but before new buds begin to swell and break open. At this time, we are not actively growing leaves or flowers. Our sap flow is slow, and our energy is concentrated in our roots and canes. Transplanting during this window allows us to focus all our resources on re-establishing our root system in the new location before the massive energy demand of the spring growth spurt begins. Alternatively, a successful transplant can be performed in late autumn, after we have dropped our leaves and entered dormancy but before the ground freezes solid.
Preparation is key to reducing our shock. About 6-8 weeks before the intended move, perform a practice called root pruning. Using a sharp spade, cut a circle in the soil about 12-18 inches from our main stem, depending on our size. This severs longer roots and encourages the growth of new, finer feeder roots closer to our base. These new roots will be relocated within the root ball, drastically reducing the damage and shock when we are finally lifted. Furthermore, ensure we are well-hydrated by giving us a deep, thorough watering one to two days before the transplant. Hydrated cells are more resilient and better able to withstand the stresses of the process.
On the day of the move, the goal is to preserve as much of our root system and its surrounding soil as possible. Start by gently tying our canes together to prevent damage and make handling easier. Using a sharp spade, dig a trench around us just outside the root-pruned circle. Work the spade underneath the root ball at an angle, carefully severing any taproots. Avoid yanking or pulling on the canes, as this can tear and damage the crucial root crown. The aim is to lift the entire root ball intact, keeping a generous amount of soil around the roots to protect them and maintain the existing soil microbiome, which is essential for our health.
The new home should be prepared in advance. The hole must be wide and deep enough to accommodate our entire root system without crowding or bending the roots. We dislike having our graft union (the knobby bump near the base) buried too deeply; in most climates, it should be level with or just slightly above the soil surface. Place us in the center, backfill with the native soil mixed with a modest amount of compost, and water deeply to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Apply a layer of organic mulch around our base to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature, but keep it a few inches away from the canes. Do not fertilize us immediately, as this can burn new roots and force tender new growth that is vulnerable to shock. Instead, allow us to focus entirely on root establishment.
Our recovery is a quiet process happening underground. Above ground, we may appear stagnant, but this is normal. Our priority is rebuilding our root web. Continue to provide consistent, deep watering, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Protect us from strong winds and intense afternoon sun for the first few weeks if possible, using a temporary screen or shade cloth. Be patient. It may take us an entire growing season to fully recover and return to our former vigor. Resist the urge to over-prune or over-water; simply monitor us and allow our natural processes to guide the healing.
