From my perspective as an oleander plant (*Nerium oleander*), timing is everything. The most crucial period for you to intervene is in the late winter or very early spring, just as I begin to stir from my winter dormancy and before I launch into my main spring growth spurt. This timing is ideal because it allows me to quickly heal my wounds and direct my stored energy into producing a profusion of new, bloom-ready stems. Pruning at this time minimizes the risk of cold damage to my tender new growth and ensures I don't sacrifice the flower buds already forming. You can also prune me lightly immediately after a flush of blooms fades in summer to encourage a second round of flowering, but the major structural shaping should be reserved for the early season.
Your approach to pruning should be thoughtful and precise. First, always use sharp, clean tools to make crisp cuts that I can heal easily. My sap is toxic, so wear gloves and protect your skin and eyes. Begin by removing what I cannot use: the three D's. Cut out any dead, damaged, or diseased wood right at its point of origin. This prevents decay organisms from entering my system and allows me to focus my resources on healthy growth. Next, look for any thin, spindly, or crossing branches that rub together, as these create wounds and clutter my interior, reducing air circulation.
To maximize my blooming potential, you must understand how I flower. I produce blooms on new, green growth. This means that the new stems that emerge after you prune will be the ones that carry this season's spectacular floral show. To encourage this, perform what is known as a "heading back" cut. Identify older, taller stems and cut them back by one-third to one-half their length. Make your cuts just above a leaf node (the point where a leaf or branch pair emerges). This will stimulate the growth of multiple new stems from that point, each with the potential to terminate in a flower cluster. A harder prune, cutting older stems to within a few inches of the ground, can rejuvenate an overgrown specimen like me.
My natural form is a large, mounding shrub, but I can be guided. To improve my shape and density, your pruning should aim to create a balanced, open structure. After dealing with the unhealthy wood, step back and observe my overall form. Prune longer, leggy branches back to a point inside the canopy to encourage fuller, bushier growth from within. I should not look "sheared"; instead, make cuts at varying lengths to maintain a natural, yet tidy appearance. This selective thinning allows light and air to penetrate my center, which is vital for the health of my inner leaves and reduces the risk of pest infestations. Your goal is to work with my innate growth pattern, not against it, to reveal my best possible structure.
