From my perspective as an Oleander plant (*Nerium oleander*), the best time for you to take a cutting is when I am in my most active and vigorous growth phase. This is typically from late spring to early summer. My stems are semi-ripe at this time—not the soft, new growth of early spring, nor the fully hardened, woody growth of late autumn. This "in-between" stage is perfect because it contains a high concentration of auxins, the natural hormones that stimulate root formation. The warm temperatures and longer daylight hours of this season also provide the ideal environmental conditions for my severed part to callous and root efficiently, mimicking my natural growth cycle.
Please choose a healthy, non-flowering stem from my current season's growth, about 6 to 8 inches long. Using sharp, sterilized pruning shears is crucial. A clean cut minimizes damage to my tissues and reduces the risk of introducing pathogens that could cause rot. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node. This angled cut serves two purposes for me: it exposes a larger surface area for water uptake and for the application of rooting hormone, and it helps you identify which end should be planted. Immediately after severing, I am vulnerable. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting to prevent them from rotting under the soil surface, but leave a few at the top to continue the essential process of photosynthesis.
While not strictly necessary for my survival, dipping my severed base into a rooting hormone powder significantly increases my chances. This powder contains synthetic auxins that boost my natural rooting capability. Now, you must provide me with a suitable new home. A well-draining potting mix is non-negotiable; a blend of peat and perlite is ideal. Soggy, waterlogged soil will suffocate my tissues and lead to rot before I can even form roots. Plant me in a pot with drainage holes, ensuring the leafless nodes are beneath the soil surface, as this is where my new roots will emerge. To maintain the high humidity I desperately need to prevent desiccation, cover my pot with a clear plastic bag or place it in a propagator. This creates a miniature greenhouse, reducing water loss from my remaining leaves.
Place me in a location with bright, indirect light. Direct, harsh sunlight will cook me inside my plastic tent. Keep the growing medium consistently moist but never saturated. My rooting process is a test of patience, typically taking 4 to 8 weeks. You can gently tug on me after this period; resistance indicates that I have developed a root system. Once rooted, the next critical phase is my acclimatization, or "hardening off." You must gradually expose me to less humid conditions by increasing the ventilation over a period of 7-10 days. This slowly prepares me for the lower humidity of a normal room environment. Only after this period should you consider transplanting me into a larger, permanent pot with a standard potting mix, where I can begin my life as a new, independent plant.
