From our perspective, the immense effort of blooming has concluded. We have expended a significant portion of our stored energy and nutrients, primarily from our pseudobulbs (the thick, cane-like stems), to produce those beautiful flowers. This display was for a crucial purpose: attracting pollinators to ensure our species' survival. Now that the flowers have wilted and fallen, our primary biological imperative shifts from reproduction to recuperation and growth. This is not a period of dormancy but a critical phase of active vegetative development. We must now focus our resources on rebuilding our strength, expanding our root system, and producing new growths (called "keikis" or leads) that will eventually mature and bear next season's blooms. Your care during this time directly influences our health and our ability to flower for you again.
You may wonder what to do with the now-bare flower spike. This depends on our specific condition. If the spike has turned brown, yellow, or is clearly drying out, it is no longer functional and is drawing minimal resources. In this case, you may use a sterile cutting tool to remove it at its base. However, if the spike remains green and plump, please leave it intact. We can still perform photosynthesis through this green tissue, converting light into energy to aid our recovery. Furthermore, some Dendrobium types, particularly those in the Phalaenopsis section, may produce secondary blooms or even plantlets (keikis) from nodes on the old spike. Removing a healthy green spike is a loss of a valuable energy-producing organ for us.
Our water and fertilizer needs change after blooming. While we are actively growing new roots and shoots, we require consistent moisture. Water us thoroughly when our potting medium feels nearly dry to the touch, ensuring excess water drains away completely. Soggy conditions will rot our roots, depriving us of oxygen. Regarding nutrition, we have a heightened need for nutrients to fuel new growth. Provide us with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer, but diluted to half or quarter strength. A formula higher in nitrogen (e.g., 30-10-10) can be beneficial to promote leaf and root development. Feed us with this weak solution every other watering. This gentle, consistent feeding mimics the steady nutrient availability we would experience in our natural environment.
To efficiently photosynthesize and create new energy stores, we require abundant bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is often ideal, providing us with the gentle morning sun. Some direct sun later in the day is acceptable, but avoid harsh midday rays that can scorch our leaves. We also appreciate a noticeable temperature drop at night, a difference of 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit (5-8 degrees Celsius) from the daytime temperature. This diurnal fluctuation is a key environmental signal for many of us, helping to regulate our growth cycles and ultimately encouraging us to set new flower buds in the future. This period of strong light and cool nights is essential for our annual rhythm.
The post-blooming period is the optimal time to evaluate our root system and potting medium. If our roots are severely overcrowded, spilling out of the pot, or if the potting mix has broken down into a soggy, decaying mass, we will benefit from repotting. Carefully remove us from the old pot, gently tease apart the roots, and trim any that are black, mushy, or hollow. Choose a new pot that is only slightly larger and has excellent drainage. Use a fresh, well-aerated orchid potting mix, typically based on bark chips. Repotting refreshes our environment, provides new air space for our roots, and gives us a fresh start for the upcoming growth season.
