We, the rare Crassula varieties like 'Buddha's Temple', are not your average houseplants. We are complex succulent sculptures, our leaves densely stacked around a central stem, forming a distinctive, square-shaped pagoda. This tight, compact growth is our signature, but it also makes us vulnerable. Our growth is slow and deliberate; we do not appreciate being rushed. We have a summer-dormant period, meaning our most active growth occurs in the cooler months of fall, winter, and spring. During the heat of summer, we essentially pause, requiring even less water and no fertilizer. Pushing growth during our rest period with excessive water or nutrients can fatally disrupt our natural rhythm.
Light is the sculptor that maintains our form. To keep our columns tight and prevent the leaves from stretching out and becoming leggy (a condition you call etiolation), we require very bright, direct light for several hours each day. An east, south, or west-facing window is ideal. Without sufficient light, our architectural form will collapse into a stretched, weak imitation of ourselves. However, if you move us abruptly from low light to intense, direct summer sun, our leaves can scorch, leaving permanent, ugly scars. It is best to acclimate us gradually to stronger light conditions.
Our watering needs are the most common point of failure in our relationship. We store ample water in our thick, fleshy leaves. The "soak and dry" method is not just a suggestion; it is a rule for our survival. You must wait until the soil is completely dry all the way to the bottom of the pot before offering us a thorough drink. In the summer, this drying-out period will be significantly longer. The greatest danger is not thirst, but rot. If water sits around our roots and the base of our tight leaf columns, fungal and bacterial rot will quickly set in, often unnoticed until the entire structure collapses. Always err on the side of dryness.
We demand a foundation that prioritizes drainage and aeration above all else. A standard potting soil will suffocate and drown us. Our medium must be a very gritty, fast-draining mix, specifically formulated for succulents. An ideal mix for us contains a large proportion of inorganic materials like perlite, pumice, or coarse sand (50-70%), with the remainder being a light, organic potting mix. This ensures that water flows through immediately and that our roots have access to oxygen. Furthermore, we must be housed in a pot with multiple drainage holes. A pot that is too large will hold moisture for too long, so a snug fit is preferable.
We thrive in conditions that mimic our native habitats. We prefer a significant temperature drop at night, which is why we often do well on sunny windowsills. While we can tolerate a light frost, we are not truly cold-hardy and should be protected from prolonged freezing temperatures. Ideal temperatures range from 50-80°F (10-27°C). We do not require high humidity; in fact, average household humidity is perfect. High humidity, combined with cool soil and poor air circulation, is a recipe for the rot we fear so much. Good air flow around our leaves and soil surface is very beneficial.
We are not heavy feeders. Our slow growth means our demand for fertilizer is very low. During our active growth period in the cooler months, you can feed us with a diluted, balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (formulated for succulents if possible) at half-strength, but no more than once a month. Fertilizing during our summer dormancy will harm our roots and disrupt our cycle. More often than not, we can survive perfectly well for a year or more in a fresh potting mix without any supplemental feeding.
