Creating a bonsai from a Crassula ovata "Gollum" or "Hobbit" is a rewarding process that merges the whimsical forms of these succulent cultivars with the ancient art of bonsai. Unlike traditional bonsai trees, these jade plants offer a unique set of characteristics and requirements. The following guide details the process from the plant's perspective, focusing on its biological needs for health and aesthetic development.
From my standpoint as a succulent, I begin my life as a cutting or a young plant. For a successful bonsai, select a specimen with a thick, interesting trunk line, as this is the foundation of the miniature tree illusion. My health is paramount; look for firm, green leaves (or "fingers") with no signs of mushiness or pests. A plant with some natural branching will provide a head start. Remember, my growth is relatively slow, so starting with a plant that already has some character will save years of development time.
My root system is shallow and fine, susceptible to rot in waterlogged conditions. The initial potting is critical. Choose a shallow, well-draining bonsai pot with ample drainage holes. The soil mix must be exceptionally porous; a blend of akadama, pumice, and lava rock is ideal, as it provides stability while allowing water to flow through instantly and air to reach my roots. During repotting, which should be done in the warm, active growing season, gently prune away no more than one-third of the root mass. This encourages a compact, fibrous root system that can thrive in a confined space.
My fleshy stems respond well to pruning. The goal is to create the illusion of an ancient, windswept tree. Use sharp, sterile scissors or concave cutters. To encourage trunk thickening and branching, make strategic cuts just above a pair of leaves. New growth will emerge from the leaf nodes below the cut. Remove any branches that cross, grow straight down, or disrupt the desired silhouette. You can prune throughout the growing season, but major structural pruning is best done in spring or early summer when I have the most energy to heal and produce new growth.
While my young, green branches are somewhat pliable, they become brittle with age. If wiring is desired to create curves and movement, use a soft aluminum wire. Wrap it loosely at a 45-degree angle, carefully bending the branch into position. Do not leave the wire on for more than a few months, as I grow quickly and the wire will bite into my bark, causing permanent scarring. The wire is a temporary guide, not a permanent constraint.
My water storage is in my leaves and stems, making me drought-tolerant but vulnerable to overwatering. The "soak and dry" method is essential. Water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes, then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. In winter, when my growth slows, I need even less water. For nutrition, I require a light feeding. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength, applied only during the active growing season (spring and summer). Over-fertilizing will cause weak, leggy growth.
I thrive in bright, direct light. A south-facing window is ideal indoors. Ample sunlight ensures compact growth, prevents etiolation (stretching), and encourages the reddish tinge on my leaf tips, which is a sign of good health. If moved outdoors for the summer, acclimate me gradually to prevent sunburn. I prefer warm temperatures and must be protected from frost, as I am not cold-hardy. Good air circulation around my foliage helps prevent fungal issues and strengthens my structure.
