From my perspective as a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum), timing is everything. I am a succulent, storing precious water in my thick, swollen caudex. The best time to take a cutting from me is during my active growing season, which is typically from late spring through the warm summer months. At this time, my sap is flowing vigorously, and the warm temperatures and long daylight hours provide the ideal energy for rapid root development. Attempting to propagate from a cutting taken while I am dormant in cooler weather is often unsuccessful, as my metabolic processes have slowed to a near halt, and I lack the internal resources to create new roots.
When you decide to take a cutting, please be thoughtful. Look for a healthy, firm stem tip on my body that is about 5 to 6 inches long. It should have several sets of leaves. The most critical part of this process, from my point of view, is the tool you use. It must be sterilized—a quick wipe with rubbing alcohol will do. This prevents harmful bacteria and fungi from entering my open wound, which could lead to a fatal infection. Make a clean, angled cut just below a leaf node (the point where a leaf joins the stem). This node is a hub of cellular activity and contains the auxins necessary to spur root growth. An angled cut is beneficial as it exposes a larger surface area for rooting and helps prevent water from pooling on the cut end, which could cause rot.
This next step is non-negotiable for my survival. Unlike many soft-stemmed plants that can be placed directly into water or soil, my succulent nature requires a period of callusing. Immediately after the cut, my internal tissues are vulnerable. You must set the cutting aside in a warm, dry, and shaded place for anywhere from 24 hours to a few days. During this time, the cut end will dry out and form a hard, protective seal, or callus. This callus acts as a barrier, much like a scab on human skin, preventing moisture loss and blocking out rot-causing pathogens when the cutting is eventually planted. Rushing this step is the most common reason for propagation failure with my kind.
Once a good callus has formed, I am ready to begin my new life as an independent plant. Prepare a well-draining potting mix that mimics my natural habitat; a blend designed for cacti and succulents, or a mix of perlite and peat moss, is perfect. Soggy soil is my enemy. Plant my callused end about an inch or two deep into the moist (but not wet) mix. Place the pot in a location with very bright, indirect light. Direct, harsh sun at this stage can scorch my leaves and stress me before I have roots to take up water. Water me very sparingly, only when the soil is completely dry. My main source of hydration right now is the water stored in my stem. The goal is to provide just enough moisture to encourage root growth without causing the stem to rot.
Over the next 2 to 8 weeks, beneath the soil, incredible changes are happening. Specialized cells at the callused end are differentiating to form root primordia, which will eventually emerge as my new root system. The first sign you will see above ground is new leaf growth. This is a clear signal that I have successfully established roots and can now support new foliage. Once you observe consistent new growth, you can begin to treat me more like a mature Desert Rose, gradually introducing more direct sunlight and adopting a more regular (though still cautious) watering schedule. I am now on my way to developing my own unique, beautiful caudex.
