From my perspective as a garden chrysanthemum, successful division is all about timing, and timing is dictated by my internal growth cycle. I am a perennial plant, meaning my root system is designed to survive winter and regenerate new stems each spring. However, the center of my clump can become old and woody over a few years, leading to weaker growth and fewer flowers. The ideal time to divide me is in the spring, just as you see new, green shoots (often called "basal shoots") emerging from the soil around the old base. These shoots are typically 2 to 4 inches tall. At this stage, the weather is cool, and I am entering a period of vigorous root growth, which gives the new divisions the best chance to establish themselves before the heat of summer stresses me. Dividing me in the autumn, after I have flowered, is possible but risky, as my new roots may not have enough time to anchor before the ground freezes.
To minimize the shock of the procedure, please water me thoroughly a day or two before you plan to divide me. This ensures my cells are full of water and my roots are more flexible, reducing the risk of breakage. When you are ready, use a sharp spade or garden fork to dig in a wide circle around my entire clump, staying about 6 inches away from the outermost shoots. Gently lift the entire root ball out of the ground. You may need to rock the tool back and forth to loosen my grip on the soil. Once I am lifted, you can gently shake off or wash away excess soil with a hose. This will allow you to see my root structure clearly, which is crucial for the next step.
Now, look closely at my root mass. You will see that I am not a single plant but a colony of shoots connected by a network of roots and rhizomes. Your goal is to separate me into healthy, viable sections. You can often pull younger, outer sections away from the old, woody center by hand if the growth is loose enough. For tougher clumps, you may need to use two garden forks inserted back-to-back into the center and then levered apart, or a sharp, sterilized knife or spade. Discard the central, woody part of the clump, as it is less vigorous. Each new division should have its own set of healthy roots and several strong, green shoots. A good rule is to aim for divisions with at least three to five shoots. The smaller the division, the longer it will take to mature into a flowering plant, but it will be rejuvenated.
Before replanting, prepare the new planting sites. I thrive in well-draining soil that receives full sun for at least six hours a day. Dig a hole wide and deep enough to accommodate the roots of the new division without crowding or bending them. Place the division in the hole, making sure the base of the shoots is level with the surrounding soil surface—do not plant me too deeply. Backfill the hole with soil, firming it gently around my roots to eliminate air pockets. Water each new division deeply and immediately after planting. This "settling in" water is critical for making good contact between my roots and the soil. Continue to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged, for the next several weeks as I focus my energy on establishing a new root system in my new location.
