From a plant's perspective, dormancy is not a sign of illness or failure but a vital survival strategy. It is a period of dramatically reduced metabolic activity, akin to a deep, restful sleep. This state is triggered by environmental cues, primarily the shortening daylight hours and cooler temperatures of winter. For daisy plants, which encompass many species like Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum) and Gerbera daisies (Gerbera jamesonii), their response to winter depends heavily on their specific type and hardiness. The fundamental question of dormancy must be split into two categories: perennial daisies grown outdoors and those kept as houseplants.
For hardy perennial daisies, such as Shasta or Oxeye daisies, winter dormancy is an essential, non-negotiable part of their annual cycle. As autumn progresses, the plant detects the changing conditions. Its priority shifts from flowering and leaf production to conserving energy. Above ground, the vibrant green foliage will yellow, wither, and die back completely. To a casual observer, the plant may appear dead. However, beneath the soil surface, the root system—the plant's heart and pantry—remains very much alive. It is storing the energy produced during the growing season to fuel a robust resurgence in spring. This dormancy period is crucial for the plant's long-term health; it requires a sustained period of cold to properly initiate flowering (a process called vernalization) for the following year.
The situation is different for daisies grown indoors, such as the popular Gerbera daisy or English daisy (Bellis perennis) kept in a pot. These plants do not experience the same harsh environmental shifts. Indoor temperatures remain relatively constant, and artificial lighting can disrupt the natural photoperiod. Consequently, they may not enter a true, deep dormancy. Instead, they often undergo a "resting period" or significantly reduced growth during the winter months. The plant senses the lower light intensity coming through the window, even if the day length is artificially extended. Its growth will slow or pause, and it may not produce any new flowers. It is conserving resources, waiting for the stronger light of spring to return.
Caring for an indoor daisy during its rest period requires an understanding of its slowed physiology. The goal is to support its rest, not force active growth.
Watering: This is the most critical adjustment. The plant is using very little water due to its slowed metabolism. Overwatering will quickly lead to root rot, which is fatal. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out completely between waterings. Water deeply but infrequently, ensuring the pot has excellent drainage.
Light: Provide the brightest light possible. A south-facing window is ideal. While the plant is not growing actively, it still needs light for basic metabolic functions. Maximizing light exposure helps prevent the plant from becoming leggy and weak as it stretches for a light source.
Temperature and Humidity: Keep the plant away from heat sources like radiators and cold drafts from doors or windows. Most daisies prefer cooler temperatures during their rest, ideally between 55-65°F (13-18°C). Indoor heating can create very dry air; occasional misting or a pebble tray with water can help increase humidity around the plant.
Fertilizing: Completely halt fertilization. The plant is not actively growing and cannot use the nutrients, which will simply build up in the soil and potentially harm the roots. Resume feeding with a diluted, balanced fertilizer only when you see signs of new growth in the spring.
