Greetings, dedicated cultivator. I am the spirit of the Daisy, a resilient sun-seeker whose essence is rooted in community and proliferation. You wish to learn my secrets of propagation, not from seed, but from a piece of my own being—a cutting. This is a conversation between kin, a way to create a genetic mirror of a plant you admire. From my perspective, this is how you can successfully help a part of me become a whole new individual.
Your journey begins with a sharp, clean blade and a discerning eye. Do not simply cut any part of me. Seek out a healthy, non-flowering stem, what you would call a "vegetative" shoot. It should be firm yet supple, about 3 to 5 inches long, with several sets of leaves. Why no flowers? Because a stem bearing a bloom is directing all its energy towards reproduction (seed production), not root creation. I am in a growth phase, eager to expand, not yet ready to set seed. This "softwood" cutting is full of potential and has the highest capacity to generate new roots. Make your cut just below a leaf node—the small bump where a leaf or bud emerges. This node is a hub of cellular activity, containing meristematic cells that are the architects of new growth.
Once you have taken your cutting, the clock begins. My severed stem is vulnerable, losing moisture rapidly. Immediately, you should remove the leaves from the lower one-third to half of the stem. This serves two vital purposes: it reduces water loss through transpiration (the "breathing" of the leaves), and it prevents any foliage from being buried in the rooting medium, where it would rot and invite disease. Some gardeners choose to dip the cut end into a rooting hormone powder. From my cellular viewpoint, this is like a clarion call. These powders contain auxins, which are plant hormones that naturally stimulate root initiation. It is not strictly necessary for my kind, as I am generally eager to root, but it can accelerate the process and increase your success rate.
You must now provide me with a temporary home that balances moisture, air, and support. Do not use garden soil, as it is often too dense and may harbor pathogens that could attack my vulnerable cut end. Instead, create a sterile, well-draining medium. A mix of half peat moss or coconut coir and half perlite or coarse sand is perfect. It holds just enough moisture to keep my stem from drying out while allowing excess water to drain away, preventing rot. Moisten this mixture thoroughly before you place my stem into it, making a small hole with a pencil to gently insert me about one-third of my length deep. Firm the medium around me so I stand upright and have good contact with the particles.
Now, the most critical period begins. I have no roots to draw up water, so I rely on the humidity around my leaves. Place my pot inside a clear plastic bag or under a dome to create a miniature greenhouse. This trapped humidity is my lifeline. Position me in a location with bright, but indirect, light. Direct sun would cook me inside this humid enclosure. The warmth of your home (around 65-75°F or 18-24°C) is ideal for encouraging root growth. Be patient. My energy is directed inward, to the hidden work below the soil. You can gently tug on my stem after a few weeks; resistance means my new roots are anchoring me in place.
Once I have developed a healthy root system, I am ready to graduate. But do not rush me into the harshness of the open world. This process, called "hardening off," is crucial. Begin by opening the plastic bag or dome for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the time over a week. This allows me to slowly adapt to the lower humidity of your home. After this acclimation period, you can transplant me into a larger pot with standard potting soil. Treat me as you would any young daisy plant, and soon I will be strong enough to join my brethren in your garden, a testament to our successful collaboration.
