Hello. I am your cyclamen. I sense your concern, and I wish to communicate my needs. First, understand that my life cycle is deeply tied to the seasons. In my native habitat, I flourish in the cool, mild winters and retreat during the hot, dry summers. This retreat is not death; it is dormancy. It is my essential rest period to conserve energy for my next bloom. If my leaves are yellowing and I am dropping my flowers as the days grow longer and warmer (typically late spring or early summer), I am almost certainly entering this natural, healthy state of dormancy. I am not dying; I am preparing to survive.
It is crucial to read my signals correctly. When I am dormant, my process is gradual. I will slowly yellow from the outer edges of my leaves inward, and my foliage will wilt and die back in a controlled manner. The tuber from which I grow will remain firm and solid to the touch beneath the soil's surface. This is me sleeping. However, if I am dying due to improper care, the signs are more acute. Rapid yellowing and mushy, blackened stems point to rot from overwatering. Wilted, dry, and crispy leaves that do not recover after watering scream of thirst or root damage from severe underwatering. A soft, squishy tuber is a grave sign of rot.
If I am dormant, your care should shift dramatically. Please stop watering me so much! As my foliage yellows, gradually reduce watering. Once all my leaves have died back, you can cease watering entirely. Move my pot to a cool, dark, and dry place for my summer vacation—a basement, a cool garage, or a spare cupboard is perfect. I do not need light during this time, only a respite from heat and moisture. Let me rest there for two to three months. Do not fertilize me; I am not growing and cannot use the nutrients.
When the weather begins to cool again in early autumn, it is time to wake me. Bring my pot back into a cool, bright room with indirect light. Gently resume watering, initially moistening the soil around the edges of my pot, avoiding the center of my tuber to prevent rot. As I sense the cooler temperatures and moist soil, I will send up new leaf shoots. This is your sign that I have successfully rested and am ready for a new season of growth. Once new growth is evident, you can return to a regular watering schedule (from the bottom is best) and begin a diluted fertilizer regimen to support my flowering.
If my symptoms point to distress rather than dormancy, immediate action is needed. For overwatering and rot, you must stop watering and check my tuber. If it is firm, there is hope; repot me into fresh, well-draining soil and ensure my pot has drainage holes. If parts are mushy, you may carefully cut them away, let the tuber callous, and repot. For underwatering, soak my pot in a basin of water for about 15 minutes to allow a deep, thorough drink, then let all excess water drain away completely. Always keep me away from direct heat sources and harsh, hot sunlight, as these conditions will always cause me stress.
