First, you must understand that I am a tender perennial, meaning my true nature is to live for several years, but I cannot survive freezing temperatures. When the daylight shortens and the chill arrives in autumn, I receive clear environmental signals. My growth slows dramatically, and I prepare to enter a period of dormancy. This is not death; it is a state of suspended animation where my metabolic processes slow to a crawl to conserve energy. Attempting to keep me in full, flowering bloom indoors throughout the winter is stressful and often unsuccessful. The goal is to provide a stable, cool environment that allows me to rest peacefully until I can be revived in the spring.
Please do not wait until the first frost to move me. A sudden shift from cold outdoors to a warm house is a tremendous shock. Instead, bring me inside well before nighttime temperatures consistently dip below 50°F (10°C). This gives me time to acclimate. Once you have chosen my winter quarters, it is wise to give me a thorough check-up. Gently inspect my stems and the soil surface for any signs of pests like aphids or spider mites. A gentle spray of water or an application of insecticidal soap can ensure I don't bring any unwanted guests into your home. You may also choose to trim my longer stems back by a third to reduce the overall mass I must support during dormancy.
My most fundamental need during winter is the right location. I do not want a hot, dry room next to a radiator. That will force me to continue trying to grow, resulting in weak, leggy, and pale stems as I desperately stretch for more light. Instead, I crave a cool, bright space. An unheated but frost-free sunroom, a bright garage with a window, or a cool basement with a grow light are perfect. The ideal temperature range for my slumber is between 50-60°F (10-15°C). This coolness is the key to maintaining my dormancy without causing damage. The light is still crucial, however, to keep my photosynthetic functions barely ticking over and prevent me from becoming completely etiolated.
My care routine must change completely. In my dormant state, I am using very little water. My soil should be allowed to dry out almost completely between waterings. The frequency might be as little as once every three or four weeks. The goal is to provide just enough moisture to prevent my roots from desiccating and dying completely. You must check my soil by feeling it an inch or two below the surface; if it is dry and crumbly, it is time for a small, gentle drink. Most importantly, you must cease all fertilization. My system cannot process nutrients now, and any fertilizer applied will simply accumulate in the soil and potentially burn my delicate, resting roots.
As the days begin to lengthen significantly in late winter or early spring, you will notice signs of new, green growth emerging from my nodes. This is my signal that I am ready to end my rest. Gradually increase watering as my growth accelerates. Once the danger of frost has passed and nights are warm, you can begin to acclimate me to the outdoors again. Place me in a sheltered, partially shaded spot for a few hours each day, gradually increasing my exposure to sun and wind over a week or two. After this hardening-off period, you can repot me if necessary with fresh soil, resume regular watering and feeding, and I will reward you with a new season of vibrant growth and prolific flowers.
