From our perspective, the journey begins in a state of deep dormancy. We require a specific environmental cue to break this slumber and signal that conditions are favorable for growth. This process is called cold stratification. To mimic the natural winter chill we would experience in our native South African habitat, you must place our seeds in a moistened paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate them for two to three weeks. This cold period convinces us that winter has passed, effectively tricking our internal biological clock and preparing us for germination. Skipping this step often results in poor or sporadic germination rates, as we simply won't recognize it's time to wake up.
Once our chilling requirement is met, we are ready for soil. We are light germinators, meaning we need to sense light to activate our growth processes. Therefore, you must sow us on the surface of a fine, well-draining seed-starting mix, gently pressing us in for good soil contact but not burying us in darkness. A warm environment is our next crucial demand. Consistent soil temperatures between 68-72°F (20-22°C) are ideal. You can provide this bottom heat with a specialized propagation mat. At this vulnerable stage, we are susceptible to fungal diseases, so water us from below by placing the tray in a shallow dish of water, allowing the soil to wick up the moisture, keeping our surface and delicate emerging parts dry.
With the right combination of light, moisture, and warmth, we will begin to germinate, typically within 10-20 days. Our first visible act is to send a tiny radicle (root) down into the soil to anchor ourselves and seek water. Shortly after, our cotyledons, or seed leaves, will emerge. These are not true leaves but provide the initial energy for our early growth. Once these are present, it is vital we receive ample light—14-16 hours per day—from a bright south-facing window or, more effectively, from grow lights positioned just a few inches above us. This prevents us from becoming leggy and weak as we strain for a light source.
When we develop our second or third set of true leaves—which actually look like the leaves of a mature Osteospermum—we have outgrown our initial community tray and our roots need more space. Carefully transplant us into individual pots. This process encourages a stronger, more robust root system, which is the foundation of our future health and drought tolerance. Before we can move into the garden permanently, we must undergo a crucial week-long process called "hardening off." Our tender foliage is not accustomed to direct sun, wind, or cool night temperatures. You must gradually expose us to these outdoor conditions for a few more hours each day, acclimating us to our final home and preventing severe transplant shock.
Our ultimate requirement is a location that mirrors our native, sun-drenched cliffs. Choose a spot with full sun and exceptionally well-draining soil. We absolutely despise having our roots sitting in wet, cold earth. Plant us at the same depth we were growing in our pots, water us in thoroughly to settle the soil around our roots, and then allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. From this point, our goal is to establish a deep root system, produce abundant foliage, and finally, reward your care with our vibrant, daisy-like flowers that track the sun across the sky.
