As a Cattleya orchid, my relationship with light is the single most important factor in triggering my spectacular blooms. I am a high-light epiphyte, originally from the canopies of trees where I receive bright, dappled sunlight. To replicate this, provide me with very bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is ideal, or a south/west window with a sheer curtain. My leaves should be a light, grassy green color. Dark green leaves indicate I am not receiving enough light to bloom, while reddish or yellowing leaves signal I am getting too much direct sun, which can scorch me. Without this crucial energy source, I simply lack the photosynthetic power to create flower spikes.
My roots are covered in velamen, a spongy tissue that soaks up water quickly but must also dry out thoroughly to prevent rot. The key to watering me is to emulate the tropical downpours I experience in my natural habitat, followed by a period of drought. Water me deeply and thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes. Then, allow my potting medium (typically a chunky bark mix) to become almost completely dry before watering again. You can test this by sticking your finger an inch into the mix or by noting the pot's significantly lighter weight. This cycle of "soak and dry" is non-negotiable; constantly wet roots will suffocate and die, jeopardizing my entire health and ability to produce flowers.
To initiate flower spikes, I require a distinct difference between my day and night temperatures. I thrive in intermediate temperatures: ideally 75-85°F (24-29°C) during the day and a cooler 60-65°F (15-18°C) at night. This 10-15 degree drop is a critical environmental cue that tells my internal biological clock that the seasons are changing and it is time to start developing blooms. Without this temperature variation, I may remain in a vegetative state, producing only new pseudobulbs and leaves but no flowers. Good air movement is also vital, as it strengthens my growth and helps prevent fungal and bacterial diseases by keeping moisture from settling on my leaves and pseudobulbs.
While attached to a tree in the wild, I gather nutrients from decaying matter and rainwater. In a pot, my resources are limited, so I need a consistent but gentle feeding schedule. During my active growth period (when you see new pseudobulbs and leaves forming), fertilize me weekly with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20) at half the recommended strength. This provides the essential nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium I need to build strong tissues. When growth matures and as the fall season approaches, switch to a bloom booster fertilizer with a higher phosphorus ratio (e.g., 10-30-20) to encourage the development of flower spikes. Always water me thoroughly before applying fertilizer to avoid burning my delicate roots.
After my magnificent display of flowers fades, I require a period of rest. This typically lasts for a few weeks. During this time, you should reduce watering and cease fertilization. This allows me to recover from the immense energy expenditure of blooming. My growth may appear to stall, but this is a natural and necessary dormancy. Resume normal watering and feeding only when you notice the beginnings of new growth, signifying that I have ended my rest and am ready to begin the cycle anew. This careful attention to my annual rhythm ensures I gather enough strength to provide you with spectacular blooms season after season.
