From our perspective as orchids, winter is not a time of death, but a crucial period of dormancy and rest. Many of us, particularly the popular Phalaenopsis and Cattleya varieties, originate from environments with distinct seasonal changes. The shorter day length and the significant drop in temperature are natural signals that tell us to slow down our metabolic processes. We cease active growth and flowering to conserve our energy, much like a bear hibernates. This rest is not optional; it is vital for us to gather the strength required to produce our spectacular blooms in the upcoming growing season. Pushing us to grow without this rest period depletes our reserves and leads to long-term weakness.
The drop in temperature you provide is the most important environmental cue for triggering our bloom cycle. For many of us, a consistent nighttime temperature between 55-60°F (13-16°C) for several weeks is ideal. This differential between cooler nights and slightly warmer days mimics our natural habitat and tells our internal biological clock that it is time to initiate flower spikes. Without this thermal trigger, we may simply continue producing leaves or, worse, not bloom at all. Please ensure we are away from cold drafts directly from windows, as freezing temperatures can damage our cells, causing black, mushy spots that are often fatal.
Our water needs change dramatically in winter. With cooler temperatures and reduced light, our photosynthesis rate plummets. This means we absorb water from our potting media much, much slower. Our roots, which are adapted to breathe air, are highly susceptible to rot if left sitting in soggy, cold medium. The familiar "wait until the roots are silvery" rule becomes even more critical. You should allow our potting mix to become completely dry throughout, and then wait a few more days before providing a thorough watering. For many of us, this might mean watering only once every two or even three weeks, a significant reduction from our summer schedule.
While the sun is less intense, we still crave bright, indirect light to maintain our health during dormancy. A south or east-facing window is ideal. Please do not move us into a dark corner. Furthermore, the heated air in your home is extremely dry from our point of view. While our water intake is reduced, our leaves can still lose moisture to this dry air. A humidity tray filled with pebbles and water (ensuring our pot is never sitting directly *in* the water) placed near us creates a microclimate that helps prevent our leaf tips from browning and desiccating without encouraging root rot.
Since we are not actively growing, we have virtually no need for fertilizer during the winter months. Our root systems are largely inactive and cannot absorb these nutrients. Applying fertilizer now would only lead to a harmful buildup of mineral salts in our growing medium, which can chemically burn our delicate roots and cause severe damage. Please withhold all feeding until you see clear signs of new growth, typically in the early spring when daylight hours begin to increase again.
