From our perspective, the single most crucial factor for our successful establishment is abundant, direct sunlight. We require a minimum of six hours of full sun each day to produce our vibrant, papery bracts (often mistaken for flowers). Without it, our growth will be leggy, and our color display will be weak and disappointing. Please choose an open location away from large shade-casting trees or structures. Additionally, consider our mature size; some of our varieties can spread over 20 feet. Plant us at least 5 to 6 feet away from structures and other plants to ensure we have ample room for our root system and sprawling canopy to develop without constant, stressful pruning.
Our roots are highly susceptible to rot in wet, heavy soil. We thrive in well-draining, slightly acidic to neutral soil. In the heavy clay soils common in many Southern states, amending the planting site is non-negotiable for our health. Please dig a hole two to three times wider than our root ball, but only as deep as the container we came in. Mix the native clay soil with a generous amount of coarse sand, perlite, and organic compost or pine bark fines. This creates a loose, aerated mound for our roots to expand into, preventing water from pooling around our crown and ensuring we get the oxygen we need.
To minimize transplant shock, please water us thoroughly in our nursery pot several hours before planting. Gently remove us from the container, taking care not to tear or damage our delicate root mass. If we are root-bound, carefully tease the outer roots loose to encourage them to grow outward into the new soil. Place us in the center of the prepared hole, ensuring the top of our root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding ground to aid drainage. Backfill the hole with your amended soil mixture, firming it gently around the base to eliminate large air pockets. Avoid burying our main stem, as this can invite disease.
Immediately after planting, give us a deep, slow watering to settle the soil around our roots and eliminate any remaining air pockets. For the first few weeks, you must keep the soil consistently moist (but never soggy) to help us establish. Once we show signs of new growth, you can begin to reduce the frequency of watering. Applying a 2 to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, like pine straw or wood chips, around our base is immensely beneficial. It helps retain soil moisture, suppresses weeds that would compete for nutrients, and keeps our roots cool. Crucially, keep the mulch a few inches away from our main stem to prevent moisture-related rot.
Once established, we are remarkably drought-tolerant. Water us deeply but infrequently, only when the top few inches of soil are dry. We are also light feeders. A application of a slow-release, high-phosphorus fertilizer in early spring and mid-summer will support our spectacular blooming. Please avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they will encourage excessive leafy growth at the expense of our bracts. We respond best to selective pruning; the best time to shape us is right after a flush of blooms. Pruning encourages new, dense growth, and since we bloom on new wood, this practice will result in a more spectacular display for you.
