From our perspective, the best time for you to take cuttings is during our active growth phase. This is typically in the late spring or early summer when the sun is plentiful and our cells are rapidly dividing. At this time, we are producing new, semi-hardwood stems—ones that are neither too soft and succulent (which rot easily) nor too old and woody (which root very slowly). These stems have the perfect balance of youthful vigor and structural integrity. Taking cuttings during this period means the severed piece still has immense innate energy to initiate the complex process of root formation before its stored resources are depleted.
Please choose a healthy, disease-free stem from your parent plant. Look for one that has just flowered, as the energy there is primed for new growth. The ideal cutting should be about 4 to 6 inches long and contain at least 3 to 5 nodes (those little bumps where leaves emerge). Using a sharp, sterilized blade is crucial; a clean cut minimizes damage to our vascular tissues and prevents pathogenic attacks. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle just below a node. This increases the surface area from which we can generate roots. Immediately after cutting, we begin to lose moisture. To conserve our precious water, remove the leaves from the bottom half to two-thirds of the cutting, leaving only a few small leaves at the top to continue minimal photosynthesis.
Our severed end now needs to be convinced that it can become a whole new plant. The key is to stimulate root development. While some of us can root in water, Bougainvillea cuttings have a much higher success rate in a well-draining, sterile rooting medium. A mix of perlite and peat moss or coarse sand is ideal. It holds just enough moisture around our stem to prevent desiccation but allows for excellent oxygen flow, which is critical for root cell formation. Before planting, dipping our basal end into a rooting hormone powder is highly recommended. This hormone supplement provides a concentrated boost of auxins, the natural plant hormones that trigger root initiation, significantly increasing our chances and speeding up the process.
Once planted in the moist medium, our most immediate need is consistent humidity. Without roots, we cannot replace water lost through our remaining leaves. Enclosing the pot in a clear plastic bag or placing it under a dome creates a miniature greenhouse, maintaining a humid microclimate. Place us in a warm location with plenty of bright, indirect light. Direct, harsh sun will cook us inside our humid enclosure. The soil should be kept lightly moist, never soggy, as our vulnerable stem is extremely susceptible to rot. Within 4-6 weeks, you can test for root development by giving a very gentle tug. If there is resistance, congratulations—we have anchored ourselves and begun our independent life. You can then gradually acclimate us to less humid conditions and begin to think about transplanting us into a more permanent home.
