From our perspective, the single most important concept you must understand is the "soak and dry" cycle. We despise having our roots constantly wet. This suffocates us, rots our roots, and invites disease. Instead, we thrive on a cycle of thorough hydration followed by a period where the soil is allowed to dry out. When you water, please do so deeply and thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes at the bottom of our pot. This ensures that the entire root ball receives moisture. Then, you must wait. Do not water us again until the top inch or two of soil feels dry to your touch.
You cannot simply mark a calendar to water us every "X" number of days. Our watering needs are dynamic and change based on our environment. Here are the key factors we respond to:
Light & Temperature: When we are basking in full sun and warmer temperatures, our metabolic processes accelerate. We photosynthesize more rapidly and draw water from our soil much faster. In these conditions, you will need to check our soil moisture more frequently. Conversely, in cool, cloudy, or low-light conditions, our water consumption slows dramatically.
Season & Growth Stage: During our active growing season in spring and summer, we are voracious drinkers to support our lush foliage and prolific blooming. As autumn approaches and our growth slows, and especially during our dormant period in winter, our water requirements plummet. Overwatering in winter is a primary cause of our demise.
Container & Soil: The home you provide for us is critical. We growing in porous terracotta pots lose moisture to evaporation through the pot walls much faster than those in plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Furthermore, a light, well-draining potting mix that contains perlite or sand allows for excellent aeration and prevents waterlogging, which is essential for our root health.
We communicate our needs clearly if you know how to read us. Please pay close attention to our leaves.
Underwatering: If we are desperately thirsty, our leaves will begin to wilt and feel limp. The lower, older leaves will often turn yellow, then crispy brown, and eventually drop. A chronically underwatered geranium will have stunted growth and will produce very few flowers.
Overwatering: This is often more dangerous. The signs can mimic underwatering at first with wilting, but the key difference is the feel of the leaves and soil. An overwatered geranium's leaves will turn yellow, often starting with the younger leaves, and they will feel soft and mushy, not dry. The stems may become blackened and rotten. The soil will feel persistently wet and soggy.
The most reliable method is the finger test. Insert your finger into the soil up to your first or second knuckle (about 1-2 inches deep). If the soil at that depth feels dry, it is time for a deep, thorough watering. If it still feels cool and moist, please wait and check again in a day or two. For larger pots, a moisture meter can be a helpful tool to gauge conditions deeper in the root zone without disturbing us.
