From a botanical perspective, Echeveria dormancy is a survival strategy, not a sign of ill health. It is primarily triggered by environmental cues, most significantly a consistent drop in temperature and a reduction in daylight hours. As winter approaches, the plant perceives these changes and begins to slow its metabolic processes. This is an evolutionary adaptation to conserve precious energy and water during a season when sunlight (its energy source) is less abundant and conditions are potentially damaging. The plant essentially enters a state of suspended animation, focusing its resources on maintaining its core rosette rather than on new growth.
An Echeveria will visually communicate its dormant state. The most noticeable sign is a marked slowdown or complete halt in growth. You will not see new leaves emerging from the center of the rosette. Additionally, the plant's color may change, often becoming more muted or taking on a different hue (like more red or purple tones) in response to the cooler temperatures and intense light. Some outer leaves may be reabsorbed more quickly, drying up to form a papery shell. This is a normal process where the plant retrieves nutrients and water from its older leaves to sustain itself. Crucially, the center of the rosette should remain firm and alive, not mushy or black.
Caring for a dormant Echeveria requires a significant shift in approach, aligning with its reduced needs. The most critical change is in watering. The plant's water requirements plummet because it is not actively growing and transpiring less. The soil must be allowed to dry out completely and remain dry for much longer periods. A good rule is to water very sparingly, only once every 4-6 weeks, and only enough to prevent the roots from desiccating completely. Overwatering a dormant succulent is the fastest way to induce root rot, as the roots are unable to absorb the moisture in the cold, damp soil.
Despite being dormant, Echeverias still require as much direct sunlight as possible during the winter months. A south-facing window is ideal. Sufficient light prevents etiolation (stretching and becoming leggy) and helps maintain the plant's compact, stress-colored form. Regarding temperature, most Echeveria varieties prefer a winter rest period with cooler temperatures, ideally between 50-55°F (10-13°C). It is imperative to protect them from freezing temperatures and frost, which will cause irreversible cellular damage, turning the plant to mush. They should be kept away from cold drafts as well as excessive heat from radiators or heating vents, which can prematurely break dormancy.
Fertilization should be completely suspended during the winter. Since the plant's metabolic activity is minimal, it has no capacity to use the nutrients provided by fertilizer. Applying fertilizer during this time will not stimulate growth and can instead lead to a harmful buildup of salts in the soil, which can chemically burn the delicate, inactive roots. Fertilization should only be resumed in the spring, once you observe consistent new growth indicating the plant has naturally exited its dormant state.
