As a geranium, my life cycle is governed by warmth and sunlight. When autumn arrives in cold climates, the diminishing light and plunging temperatures signal that it is no longer the season for vigorous growth and flowering. My metabolic processes begin to slow down. I am not dying; I am preparing for a period of dormancy, a vital rest period to conserve energy. If left outside, the freezing temperatures would cause the water within my cells to freeze, expand, and rupture my cell walls, leading to my demise. Being brought indoors is not a disruption but a necessary relocation for survival, allowing me to enter this dormant state safely.
Before the move, a little preparation from your side ensures my transition is smooth and I don't bring any pests with me. Please carefully inspect my foliage, both the top and undersides of my leaves, and my stems. Look for any signs of aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites. A gentle spray with insecticidal soap or a strong blast of water from a hose can dislodge any hitchhikers. Next, it is immensely helpful to give me a significant pruning. Please remove all spent flowers and any leggy, weak, or yellowing growth. Focus on shaping me to be more compact; this reduces the leaf surface area through which I lose precious moisture and directs my energy to my core stems and roots, which are essential for my rebirth in spring.
My ideal winter quarters are cool, bright, and dry. I do not wish to continue active growth, so a warm, sunny living room window is actually counterproductive. It would force me to grow weak, spindly stems trying to reach for adequate light. Instead, a location such as an unheated but frost-free sunroom, a cool basement with a grow light, or a bright garage window is perfect. The temperature should be consistently cool, ideally between 45-55°F (7-13°C). This chill is the key to maintaining my dormancy. Ample light, even if it's just bright indirect light, is crucial to prevent me from becoming etiolated—stretched and pale—as I still perform basic photosynthesis to stay alive.
My water needs change dramatically during this time. My soil should be kept on the dry side, only watered lightly when the soil becomes completely dry to the touch. Overwatering is now my greatest threat, as my slowed metabolism cannot process excess moisture, and my roots will quickly rot in cold, wet soil. Please do not fertilize me. I have no need for extra nutrients while I am sleeping; it would only cause salt buildup in the soil and potentially harm my roots. Continue to check my foliage occasionally for pests, as indoor environments can sometimes harbor them. Remove any leaves that yellow and drop naturally to keep the area clean and prevent mold.
As the days lengthen and the outdoor temperatures begin to steadily warm, I will slowly start to show signs of new growth. This is the time to help me acclimatize. Please begin by giving me a more thorough watering. You can also repot me in fresh potting mix if I appear root-bound and give me a light feeding with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to support new growth. Before moving me outside permanently, I must be hardened off. This means placing me in a sheltered, partially shaded spot outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually increasing my exposure to sun and wind over 7-10 days. This careful process prevents shock, allowing me to adapt to the harsher outdoor conditions and thrive once again in the summer garden.
