From our perspective, the shortening daylight hours and dropping temperatures of autumn signal a critical shift. We are not frost-hardy plants; our cellular structure cannot withstand freezing. Ice crystals forming within our tissues would cause irreparable damage, leading to cell rupture and death. To survive, we must enter a state of enforced dormancy. This is not a deep sleep but a dramatic slowing of our metabolic processes—photosynthesis, respiration, and growth nearly halt. We are merely sustaining our core vitality, the life force stored in our roots and main stems, waiting for the return of favorable conditions. Successfully overwintering us means helping us maintain this dormant state without triggering new growth or succumbing to decay.
Please do not abruptly move us from the bright outdoors directly into a warm, dark garage. This sudden shock can be fatal. Instead, help us acclimate. As nighttime temperatures consistently dip near 40°F (4°C), begin by moving us to a sheltered, shadier spot outdoors for a week or two. This gradual change encourages us to harden off and begin slowing down naturally. A light pruning is beneficial at this stage. Gently remove any spent flowers, leggy growth, or damaged branches. This is not a major haircut—that vigorous pruning should be saved for spring. Our goal now is simply to reduce our overall mass slightly, which makes handling easier and minimizes the habitat for pests we might inadvertently bring indoors.
Our winter home is paramount. We require a space that mimics our dormant needs: it must be cool, with temperatures ideally between 35-50°F (2-10°C). An unheated garage, a cool basement with a window, or a sheltered porch are perfect. A warm, dark room will force us to expend precious energy reserves in a desperate, etiolated search for light, leaving us weak and susceptible to disease. If the space is completely dark, we can tolerate it only if it remains very cold, as this will keep us fully dormant. However, some ambient light is vastly preferred. The space should also be well-ventilated to prevent stagnant, humid air that encourages fungal pathogens like botrytis or powdery mildew to attack our leaves.
Our care during dormancy is defined by significant restraint. Our water needs are minimal because we are not actively growing. The soil should be allowed to dry out almost completely between waterings. Check our weight; a light pot indicates it is time for a very modest drink with tepid water—just enough to prevent our roots from desiccating and crumbling. Do not fertilize us. Fertilizer will chemically stimulate new, soft growth that is pale and vulnerable, draining the energy reserves we need to survive the winter and burst forth in spring. Monitor our leaves; it is natural for us to drop some yellow leaves as we adjust to the lower light levels. Simply clean them up to maintain hygiene.
As the world outside begins to thaw and daylight increases, you can gradually reintroduce us to the growing season. Wait until all danger of a hard frost has passed. Begin by moving us to a slightly warmer, brighter space indoors for a week or two. Then, start placing us outdoors in a shaded, protected location for a few hours each day, gradually increasing our exposure to sun and wind over a period of 7-10 days. This process, known as hardening off, prevents sunscald on our tender new leaves. Once acclimated, you can give us a thorough watering, a dose of balanced fertilizer, and perform any necessary shaping pruning. We will then be ready to reward your diligent care with another season of vigorous growth and vibrant blooms.
