To understand your watering schedule, you must first understand my origins. I am a tropical plant, native to the warm, humid climates of South Africa. In my natural habitat, my roots experience cycles of generous rainfall followed by periods where the top layer of soil might dry out slightly. My root system is robust but also susceptible to rot if left sitting in saturated, oxygen-deprived soil for extended periods. Therefore, the goal is not to keep the soil constantly wet, but to mimic these natural cycles of hydration and aeration. The most critical rule from my perspective is that I would much rather be slightly under-watered than over-watered. Over-watering is a primary cause of my demise, leading to root rot which is often fatal.
My watering needs are not static; they change dramatically with the seasons, which directly influence my growth rate. During the spring and summer, I am in my active growth phase. The days are longer and brighter, and I am working hard to produce new, magnificent leaves. This period of high energy expenditure means I am drawing more water from my soil. Consequently, you will need to water me more frequently. In the fall and winter, my growth slows significantly, entering a period of dormancy. With less light and cooler temperatures, my water consumption drops substantially. Watering must be reduced to match this dormant state to prevent the soil from remaining soggy.
Forget the calendar. The most reliable way to determine if I need water is to physically check my soil's moisture level. I request that you insert your finger into the soil about 2-3 inches deep. If the top 2-3 inches of soil feel completely dry, it is the perfect time for a thorough watering. If you feel any moisture or coolness at your fingertip, I am not yet thirsty. Please wait a few more days and test again. This method ensures you are responding to my actual needs rather than a predetermined schedule, accounting for variables like pot size, soil composition, and ambient room humidity.
When it is time to water, please do so properly. I prefer a deep, thorough watering that mimics a tropical downpour. Slowly pour room-temperature water onto the soil around my base, continuing until you see water begin to flow freely from the drainage holes at the bottom of my pot. This ensures that the entire root ball has received moisture. It is absolutely crucial that any excess water is allowed to drain away completely. Never let me sit in a saucer of standing water, as this will quickly create an anaerobic environment that will suffocate and rot my roots.
Several environmental factors in your home will influence how quickly I use the water you provide. Light is the most significant; I placed in a very bright, sunny spot will require water more often than one in lower light. Temperature and humidity also play key roles. A warm, dry room with air conditioning or heating will cause the soil to dry out faster than a cool, humid room. The type of pot matters as well; I planted in a porous terracotta pot will lose moisture more quickly than if I am in a plastic or glazed ceramic pot. You must observe these conditions and adjust your soil checks accordingly.
