From my perspective as an azalea, the timing of your move is the single most important factor for my survival and future flourishing. I prefer to be transplanted when I am in my dormant phase, a period of rest where my above-ground growth has ceased, and my energy is concentrated within my root system. This typically occurs in the late fall, after my leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes solid, or in the very early spring, just as the soil becomes workable but before my new leaf buds begin to swell. During these windows, the cool, moist soil conditions minimize the shock to my system. Transplanting me while I am actively growing or, worse, in full bloom, is incredibly stressful. I am expending immense energy on foliage and flowers, and the trauma of root disturbance at this time can severely set me back or be fatal.
How you prepare me for the move is a delicate operation. The goal is to extract my root ball with as little damage as possible. My roots are fine and fibrous, not deep but wide-spreading, so you must dig a trench around me, well beyond the reach of my outermost branches (the drip line). Please use a sharp spade to make clean cuts; tearing my roots creates open wounds vulnerable to disease. As you work underneath me, be patient. The aim is to keep the root ball—the soil and the roots within it—largely intact. The size of this ball should be as generous as you can manage; a good rule is 12-18 inches in diameter for every inch of my trunk's diameter. Once I am free, gently lift me onto a burlap sack or directly into a wheelbarrow. Do not lift me by my trunk, as this can shear the crucial roots connecting me to the soil.
My new planting hole is my future, so its preparation is critical. You must dig it twice as wide as my root ball, but only as deep. I am a shallow-rooted plant and will suffer if planted too deeply; the top of my root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. The soil composition is paramount. I am an acid-loving plant (ericaceous) and require well-draining, organic-rich, acidic soil. Amend the native soil you removed with generous amounts of peat moss, composted pine bark, or leaf mold. This creates the loose, moist, yet aerated environment my roots crave. Do not use heavy clay or alkaline soils; they will suffocate me and cause my leaves to yellow from chlorosis.
Once I am carefully placed in the center of the hole and backfilled with the amended soil, firm the soil gently around me to eliminate large air pockets. Then, you must provide me with a deep, thorough watering. This not only quenches my immediate thirst but also helps the soil settle around my roots. After watering, apply a thick, 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch, such as pine needles or shredded bark, around my base. This is vital. It will conserve precious soil moisture, keep my roots cool, and continually acidify the soil as it decomposes. For the first full growing season after my transplant, you must monitor my water levels closely. I will need consistent moisture as I re-establish my root system in this new location, but I must never sit in waterlogged soil.
