We, the seeds of *Origanum vulgare* subsp. *hirtum*, require specific conditions to break our natural dormancy. Our tiny embryos are encased in a protective coat, waiting for the correct signals to begin our life cycle. The optimal soil temperature for our awakening is a consistently warm 65-70°F (18-21°C). Sowing us indoors, 6-10 weeks before the last expected frost, provides this stable warmth and protects our delicate initial growth from unpredictable outdoor elements. Lightly press us into a well-draining seed-starting mix, as we need exposure to light to germinate effectively. Do not bury us deeply; a mere dusting of fine vermiculite is sufficient. Keep the medium moist but not waterlogged, and with patience, you should see our cotyledons (seed leaves) emerge in 7 to 14 days.
Once our cotyledons unfurl and our first true sets of fragrant, oval leaves appear, our primary mission is to establish a strong root system. We are susceptible to "damping off," a fungal condition, so ensure we have excellent air circulation and avoid overwatering. As we grow, our roots will quickly fill the small cells of a starter tray. When we have developed 2-3 sets of true leaves, it is time to transplant us into larger, individual pots. This gives our root systems the space they need to expand and strengthen, which is crucial for our future survival outdoors. During this stage, provide us with plenty of bright, direct light—a south-facing window or a grow light is ideal—to prevent us from becoming leggy as we stretch for energy.
The transition from the protected indoor environment to the harsh outdoors is a critical juncture for us. We must undergo a process called "hardening off" to adapt to the intense sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures. Abruptly moving us outside will shock our systems, scorching our leaves and stunting our growth. Begin by placing us in a sheltered, partially shaded location for just a few hours each day, gradually increasing our exposure to direct sunlight and outdoor conditions over 7-10 days. This slow process allows our cuticle (the waxy layer on our leaves) to thicken, enabling us to better retain water and withstand the power of the sun.
Once the danger of frost has passed and we are fully hardened off, we are ready for our permanent home in your garden. We demand a location with full sun (at least 6-8 hours daily) and exceptionally well-draining soil. We are Mediterranean natives and our roots are highly prone to rot in heavy, wet clay. Planting us in raised beds, containers, or amending the soil with sand or gravel is ideal. Space us 12 inches apart to allow for our mature bushy growth, which can reach 12-24 inches in height and spread. As we mature, our focus turns to vegetative growth, producing the aromatic leaves you desire. To encourage a bushy habit, pinch back our stem tips. If allowed, we will produce small white flowers in mid to late summer, which are highly attractive to pollinators.
For those of you in zones 5-9, we are a hardy perennial. As the photoperiod shortens and temperatures drop in autumn, our above-ground growth will die back. Do not be alarmed; this is our survival strategy. Our energy retreats into our crown and root system below the soil surface, where we enter a period of dormancy to conserve resources and survive the winter. A light layer of mulch applied after the ground freezes can help protect our roots from severe temperature fluctuations, especially in the colder end of our range (zones 5-6). We will remain dormant until the warmth and light of spring signal us to begin a new growth cycle.
