From my point of view, as an azalea, the most critical part of this entire process is my root system. I am not a deep-rooted plant; my roots are fine, fibrous, and spread out horizontally, just beneath the soil's surface to efficiently gather moisture and nutrients. They form a delicate, symbiotic relationship with mycorrhizal fungi, which are essential for my health. A rough transplant that severs these roots and destroys this fungal network is a massive shock to my system. It is how I absorb water, and without an intact root ball, I cannot drink, leading to a rapid and fatal case of dehydration. Your primary goal is to minimize this root disturbance.
Please do not attempt this in the summer heat or when I am in full bloom. That is when I am expending the most energy on flowering and new growth. Uprooting me then would be catastrophic. The ideal time is during my dormant period, in late fall after I have hardened off for winter, or in very early spring before my new leaf buds begin to swell. The cool, moist weather during these times means I experience less transplant shock. There is less demand for water from my leaves (as many have dropped or are not actively growing), which gives my damaged roots a chance to re-establish themselves in their new home without the stress of supporting a full canopy.
Begin by hydrating me thoroughly a day or two before the move. This ensures my cells are full of water, making me more resilient. Then, your task is to dig a wide trench around my main stem, far out to encompass as much of my root zone as possible. The width of your trench should be at least as wide as my drip line (where my branches end). Dig down carefully, aiming to preserve a large, intact root ball. Once you have undercut the root ball, slide a burlap sack or a piece of landscape fabric underneath it. This is crucial. Gently lift me out, keeping the root ball and the soil around it completely undisturbed. Secure the fabric around the ball to prevent it from breaking apart during transport.
You must prepare my new planting hole before you ever lift me from the ground. The hole should be two to three times as wide as my root ball, but only just as deep. I absolutely despise being planted too deeply; it suffocates my roots. I thrive in acidic, well-draining, organic-rich soil. Amend the native soil you removed with plenty of peat moss, compost, or well-rotted leaf mold. Place me in the hole so that the top of my root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Backfill gently with your amended soil, firming it around the root ball to eliminate large air pockets, but do not compact it heavily.
Once I am in my new location, water me deeply and slowly to settle the soil around my roots. Apply a thick layer of organic mulch, like pine straw or shredded bark, around my base. This is vital—it will keep my shallow roots cool, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds. However, keep the mulch a few inches away from my main stem to prevent rot. For the next full growing season, you must be diligent about watering. The soil should be kept consistently moist but never soggy. Do not fertilize me immediately after transplanting; my burned roots cannot handle it. Wait until you see signs of new growth, which indicates I have begun to establish myself and am ready for a gentle, acidic fertilizer.
