As a gladiolus, my vibrant summer blooms have now faded, signaling a critical transition. My energy, once directed towards flowering, must now be channeled back into my corm—the sturdy, underground storage organ that is my lifeline. To prepare me for this, you must stop watering me after my flowers are spent. This allows my foliage to naturally begin to yellow and die back. This process is not neglect; it is essential. It tells my system to cease active growth and start the process of nutrient translocation, moving valuable sugars and starches from my leaves down into my new corm, which has been forming on top of the old, now-depleted one. Please resist the urge to cut my green leaves away too early, as this severs the very supply line I need to fatten up for the winter.
Once my foliage has turned yellow or brown, typically 4-6 weeks after blooming, it is time to lift me from my bed. Using a garden fork, gently loosen the soil in a wide circle around my base to avoid spearing or slicing through my corms. Carefully lift the entire clump from the earth. You will see the new, healthy corm attached to the bottom of the old, withered one, with smaller cormels (my future offspring) clinging to the sides. Gently shake off the loose soil, but do not wash me with water, as this can encourage rot during storage. My stems should be trimmed back to within an inch of the new corm's top.
I now require a period of curing, which is a specific drying process. Place my corms in a single layer on a screen, rack, or in a flat cardboard box in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight. A temperature of 70-80°F (21-27°C) is ideal. This curing period should last for about two to three weeks. During this time, my outer layers will dry and toughen, forming a protective husk, and the remnants of the old corm will become brittle and easy to remove. This step is crucial for sealing my inner tissues and preventing moisture loss and disease entry during my long dormancy.
After curing, you must prepare me for long-term storage. First, gently break off the dried-up remains of the old corm from the base of the new one; it should snap away easily. Next, separate the small cormels and store them separately, as they will grow into flowering plants in a season or two. Remove any loose, dry husks, but do not peel my layers like an onion. Inspect each corm carefully, discarding any that show signs of squishiness, rot, or severe damage. I am now ready for my winter rest.
To survive until spring, I need a storage environment that mimics a perfect, dry winter underground. Place my cured corms in a breathable container, such as a mesh bag, a paper bag, or a cardboard box with ventilation holes. You can layer me in peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings to help absorb any residual moisture and maintain a stable humidity. The key to my survival is a cool, dark, dry, and frost-free place. The ideal temperature for my slumber is between 35-45°F (2-7°C). A basement, unheated garage, or a cool closet often provides these perfect conditions. Please check on me periodically throughout the winter to ensure I remain firm and dry, removing any that may have succumbed to rot.
