From our perspective, sunlight is our primary source of energy. We convert it into food through photosynthesis, and this stored energy is absolutely crucial for the massive undertaking of creating a flower spike. For us gladioli, we require a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily. Planting us in a shady location forces us to divert all our energy into simply surviving and producing foliage, leaving little to no reserves for the development of our spectacular blooms. Ensure our planting site is in full sun to fuel our floral show.
Our corms are our lifeline, containing the pre-formed blueprint for this season's growth. Planting us too shallow makes us unstable and susceptible to toppling over under the weight of our own flower spikes. Planting us too deep forces us to expend a tremendous amount of energy just to reach the soil surface, again depleting reserves needed for flowering. The ideal depth for us is about 4 to 6 inches deep, with the pointed end facing upward. Furthermore, timing is critical. Plant us after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Staggering plantings every two weeks will ensure a continuous harvest of blooms rather than one overwhelming flush.
We cannot thrive in heavy, waterlogged clay. This suffocates our roots and promotes rot, which is a death sentence. We prefer well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Amend the planting area with compost or well-rotted manure to provide a loose, fertile foundation. While we are not excessively greedy feeders, we do require specific nutrients to support flowering. A fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio) is ideal. Phosphorus directly supports strong root development and, most importantly, flower formation. Feed us when the flower spikes first begin to emerge to give us the extra boost we need.
Our water needs are specific to our growth stage. After planting, we require consistent moisture to initiate root growth. However, once our shoots emerge, we need deep, thorough watering that saturates the root zone. This encourages our roots to grow downward, creating a strong and stable anchor. Avoid frequent, light sprinklings, which only moisten the surface and encourage shallow root systems. The critical period for water is when the flower spike is developing. Drought stress at this time can cause the spike to abort, resulting in no flowers at all. After blooming, you can gradually reduce watering as we begin to prepare for dormancy.
We know the temptation is to cut back our unsightly leaves once our flowers have faded, but please resist! The post-bloom period is when we are replenishing our corm for next year's display. Our leaves are still actively photosynthesizing and sending energy back down to be stored. If you remove our foliage too early, you severely weaken the corm, resulting in a non-flowering plant the following year. Allow our leaves to remain until they have turned yellow and died back naturally. This process ensures we have enough energy stored to produce a magnificent bloom for you again next season.
