As a plant, my primary purpose is to gather solar energy through my leaves to produce food. This process, called photosynthesis, is the fundamental engine for all growth, including the creation of my beautiful flowers. If I am placed in a location with insufficient light—perhaps a shady corner or a dim room—I simply cannot generate enough carbohydrates. My survival instinct forces me to direct all my limited energy into maintaining my basic leaf and root structures. The tremendous energy required to produce a flower stalk and develop blooms is a luxury I cannot afford under these conditions. To help me, please ensure I receive several hours of direct sunlight daily.
My flower is not created in the moment; it was pre-formed inside my bulb the previous growing season. Think of my bulb as a pantry and a nursery combined. After I finish blooming, I continue to absorb sunlight through my green foliage. This period is critical. If my leaves are cut back or tied up immediately after flowering, you are robbing me of the ability to photosynthesize and restock my pantry. Without this period of replenishment, my bulb becomes weak and has no resources to initiate the complex process of forming a new flower bud for the next year. Please allow my leaves to remain until they yellow and wither naturally.
My water needs are specific and change throughout my growth cycle. During my active growth and flowering period, I require consistent moisture. If the soil around my roots becomes too dry, I will become stressed. This stress can cause me to abort the flowering process to conserve resources, resulting in blind buds (flower stalks with no bloom). Conversely, if I am left sitting in waterlogged soil, my roots will begin to rot. Damaged roots cannot absorb water or nutrients, effectively starving me and again preventing the development of my flowers. My pot must have drainage holes, and my soil should be kept moist but never soggy.
My internal biology is governed by seasonal temperature cycles. To initiate flower development, I require a period of cold dormancy. This simulated winter tells me that it is safe to reset and prepare for spring blooming. If I am not provided with this chilling period—typically 12-16 weeks of temperatures between 35-48°F (2-9°C)—my internal clock becomes confused, and I may only produce leaves. This is a common issue for those who try to force me to bloom indoors without proper pre-chilling. After blooming, I also need a cool period to recover. Being kept in excessively high heat after flowering exhausts my bulb.
Over the years, as I grow, I produce offsets—small new bulbs attached to my main one. While this is a natural way for me to reproduce, it eventually leads to congestion. When we are too crowded in a pot or in the ground, we must compete fiercely for water, nutrients, and space. This competition is draining. A congested clump of bulbs will often stop flowering and focus energy on sheer survival. Dividing us every few years, after the foliage has died back, gives each bulb the room and resources it needs to thrive and flower abundantly again.
