From my perspective as a daffodil, the showy flower was merely a means to an end—attracting pollinators to ensure the survival of my genetic line. Now that the flower has faded, my true work begins. The energy captured by my leaves through photosynthesis is no longer directed toward the bloom but is instead being channeled down into my bulb. This period is critical. You see, the flower for next year is already beginning to form deep within me, and it requires a massive store of energy to develop properly. If my leaves are cut off or tied up immediately after flowering, you are essentially starving me. I cannot photosynthesize, and I cannot create the necessary carbohydrates to fuel next spring's display. Please, allow my foliage to remain intact and green.
My leaves are my solar panels and my manufacturing plants. For the next 4 to 6 weeks, they must be left to soak up the sun. This is not an idle period; it is a period of intense activity beneath the soil. The nutrients produced are transported to the bulb, where they are converted into stored energy. You will know this process is complete when my leaves turn yellow and then brown, becoming limp and lifeless. This is a natural sign that I have successfully retrieved all the valuable resources from the foliage and my growth cycle for the year is complete. Only then should the dead foliage be gently removed.
Generally, I prefer to be left undisturbed. I am a perennial bulb, designed to survive underground through winter and re-emerge year after year. However, if my clump has become too crowded, my blooms may become smaller and fewer due to competition for space and nutrients. If you must move me, the best time is after my foliage has died back but while you still remember where I am planted. This is typically in late spring or early summer. Carefully lift me from the soil, and you may find that my original bulb has produced smaller offset bulbs, known as bulblets. These can be gently separated and replanted to create new plants.
Once my foliage has died back, I enter a period of dormancy. Even though I appear inactive on the surface, internal development continues. The embryonic flower and leaves for next year are slowly maturing inside me, protected by my papery tunic. During this time, I require a period of cooler temperatures to break this dormancy and trigger the biochemical processes needed for spring growth. This is why I am so well-adapted to temperate climates. Whether I am left in the ground or stored, this chilling period is non-negotiable for a successful bloom.
If I am growing in a container, my needs are slightly different. The limited soil volume means nutrients can deplete more quickly. After flowering, continue to water me and feed me with a liquid fertilizer high in potassium (such as a tomato feed) to support bulb development. Once my leaves yellow, you can stop watering and move my pot to a cool, dry place for the summer. Alternatively, you can lift my bulbs from the pot, let them dry, clean them, and store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place until it is time for autumn planting.
