I am a creature of light, but I am particular. My ideal is bright, indirect light for at least 6-8 hours a day. Think of the dappled sunlight beneath a tall tree. Direct, harsh afternoon sun will scorch my delicate leaves, causing them to yellow and wilt, which stresses me and diverts energy away from flower production. Conversely, deep shade is my enemy. Without sufficient light, I simply cannot perform the photosynthesis required to create the immense energy needed to form my large, fragrant blooms. If I am not flowering, assess my light situation first. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade is often perfect.
My roots are sensitive and have very specific demands. I am an acid-loving plant, requiring soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. In neutral or alkaline soil, I cannot properly absorb nutrients, especially iron, leading to yellow leaves with green veins (chlorosis)—a sure sign I am struggling. The soil must also be exceptionally well-draining yet consistently moist. I despise having "wet feet"; soggy, waterlogged soil will quickly cause my roots to rot, which is often fatal. Ensure I am planted in a rich, peat-based potting mix or amended garden soil that retains moisture without becoming compacted.
Producing my magnificent, waxy blooms is an energetically expensive process for me. I require consistent nourishment, but not just any fertilizer. You must provide me with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants, such as those labeled for azaleas or rhododendrons. These contain the higher levels of nitrogen and micronutrients like iron that I crave. The key is timing: feed me every 2-4 weeks during my active growing season (spring and summer). However, as daylight shortens in late summer, you must stop. Fertilizing me in fall encourages tender new growth that will be damaged by cooler temperatures, causing me severe stress and jeopardizing next year's flower buds.
I am a tropical plant, and my flower buds are highly susceptible to aborting due to environmental stress. Low humidity is a primary cause of bud drop. My buds may form, but without moist air, they dry out and fall off before ever opening. Please increase humidity around me by misting my leaves regularly, placing my pot on a tray of wet pebbles, or using a humidifier. Furthermore, I am sensitive to extreme temperature shifts. I prefer consistent daytime temperatures between 65-70°F (18-21°C) and slightly cooler nights. Drastic temperature changes, especially cold drafts or blasts of hot, dry air from vents, will shock my system and cause me to drop my buds in protest.
Pruning is a delicate matter. I set my flower buds on the previous season's growth. This means if you prune me at the wrong time, you are directly cutting off my potential for flowers. The only safe time to prune me is immediately after my main blooming cycle has finished, typically in late summer. This gives me ample time to produce new growth that will mature and harden off to set buds for the following year. If you prune me in fall, winter, or spring, you are almost certainly removing those precious buds. Only remove dead wood, shape lightly, and cut back leggy stems right after the flowers fade.
