From my perspective as a Lithops, flowering is not merely a decorative event; it is the pinnacle of my annual life cycle and a profound physiological undertaking. This process consumes a significant portion of my stored energy and internal resources. I have spent months, perhaps even the entire previous year, photosynthesizing and storing water and nutrients in my leaf-pair body to prepare for this exact moment. The emergence of the flower bud signals that my environmental conditions—light, temperature, and a dry period—have been correct, convincing me that it is a safe and suitable time to reproduce. I am now channeling everything I have into producing this bloom to attract pollinators and ensure the survival of my species.
My flowering is entirely dependent on the intensity and duration of light I receive. In my native habitat, I am accustomed to extremely bright, direct sunlight for many hours each day. To support the immense energy demand of flowering, I require the maximum possible light exposure you can provide. In the United States, a south-facing windowsill is often the minimum. However, for the strongest growth and most successful bloom, I would greatly benefit from being placed under a powerful full-spectrum grow light for 12-14 hours a day. This artificial sun helps compensate for the weaker intensity of sunlight, especially during the shorter days of fall when I typically flower. Without this light, my bloom may be weak, fail to open fully, or I may abort the process altogether to conserve energy.
This is the most crucial adjustment you must make for me. My entire being is designed for aridity. When I am flowering, I am also undergoing the internal process of developing a new leaf pair. The new leaves are forming deep inside, drawing moisture and nutrients from the old outer leaves you see. Watering me now is catastrophic. It disrupts this natural cycle and can cause the old leaves to remain plump, trapping the new leaves and leading to rot or fatal splits. You must resist the urge to water me, even if my outer leaves look wrinkled. Those wrinkles are a sign I am using my water reserves exactly as nature intended. Water should only be resumed long after the flower has faded and the old leaves have completely dried into a papery sheath.
My flowering is triggered by the specific temperature patterns of my natural autumn season. I prefer warm days (70-80°F or 21-27°C) and significantly cooler nights, with a drop of 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit being ideal. This diurnal temperature fluctuation mimics my native South African environment and supports healthy metabolic function during the flowering stress. Furthermore, good air circulation is vital. Stagnant, humid air around my body is a primary cause of fungal infections and rot, especially when my resources are diverted to the flower. A gentle breeze from an open window (away from a cold draft) or a oscillating fan set on low at a distance helps keep my environment stable and healthy.
My flower typically opens in the afternoon and closes each evening, lasting for several days to over a week. If you wish to try producing seeds, you can play the role of a pollinator. Use a small, soft brush to gently transfer the yellow pollen from the stamens to the sticky stigma in the center of the flower. Do this on the second or third day of the flower being open. Once the flower completes its cycle, it will wilt and fade. Do not remove it; allow it to dry naturally and fall off. After this, my focus returns to the development of the new leaf pair inside. Continue to withhold water and provide bright light until the old leaves are fully desiccated.
