From my perspective, an orchid with root rot is experiencing a systemic crisis. My roots are not just anchors; they are my entire lifeline for water and nutrient uptake. They are coated in a special spongy tissue called velamen, designed to quickly absorb moisture. When they are constantly saturated, the velamen suffocates and begins to rot. This process is often caused by a medium that has broken down and become too dense or by overzealous watering. Without functional roots, I cannot drink. This leads to dehydration throughout my system, causing my leaves to become limp, wrinkled, and yellow. I am literally dying of thirst while standing in water.
The first step to save me is a complete extraction from my current pot. Gently remove me and all the old potting medium. You must be thorough; any decaying material left behind can harbor the pathogens that caused this issue. Once I am bare-root, carefully rinse my root system with lukewarm water to wash away any remaining debris. This will allow for a clear visual and tactile inspection. Healthy roots should be firm and plump, often with a silvery-green or white velamen and a distinctive green tip if actively growing. Rotted roots, however, will be mushy, brown or black, and may slough off their outer layer easily, revealing a thin, stringy core. They may also have a distinct, unpleasant odor.
This is the most critical part. Using a sharp, sterile instrument—such as scissors or pruning shears wiped with rubbing alcohol—you must meticulously trim away every single piece of soft, rotten root. Sterilization is non-negotiable; it prevents cross-contamination of the infection to my healthy tissues. Cut back until you reach only firm, healthy root material. If the rot has traveled up into my stem (the base from which my leaves and roots grow), you may need to carefully remove any affected lower leaves and scrape away any brown or mushy tissue from the stem itself. This feels drastic, but it is necessary. A small amount of cinnamon, a natural fungicide, can be lightly dusted on the fresh cuts to help seal them and prevent further infection.
After surgery, I need a fresh, highly aerated environment to recover and encourage new root growth. Do not repot me in old medium or dense soil. Choose a specialized orchid potting mix, typically composed of large-chunk bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, or a blend. This new medium provides essential air circulation around my remaining root system. Select a pot that is just large enough to accommodate my trimmed roots, preferably one with ample drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent as they are porous and help wick away excess moisture. Position me in the pot, hold me at the correct height, and gently fill in around my roots with the new medium, tapping the pot to settle it without compacting it.
My recovery will be slow and requires careful attention. Do not water me immediately after repotting. The fresh cuts on my roots need a few days to callous over in a warm, humid environment with bright, indirect light. When you do water for the first time, do so sparingly. My greatly reduced root system cannot handle much moisture. The key is to allow the new potting medium to dry out almost completely between waterings. You can monitor this by feeling the weight of the pot or checking the moisture deep in the pot with a skewer. With time, precise watering, and stable conditions, I will begin to push out new root nubs, signaling that the rescue mission is on track to success.
