As my vibrant petals fade and my above-ground foliage begins to yellow and wither, do not mistake this for demise. This is a critical phase of my life cycle called senescence. I am deliberately withdrawing valuable nutrients and energy from my leaves and stems. This process is not one of decay, but of strategic conservation. The carbohydrates produced through photosynthesis during my growth period are now being transported downward, away from the dying foliage, and are being converted into starchy reserves. These reserves are pumped directly into my core being—my corm. This underground storage organ swells in preparation for my dormancy, serving as the sole battery pack that will fuel my entire growth cycle next season.
Once my foliage has turned completely yellow or brown and has died back naturally, it is the signal that my energy transfer is complete. Gently loosen the soil around me with a fork, taking great care not to pierce or bruise my now-turgid corm. I am much more fragile than I appear; any wound can become an entry point for rot-causing pathogens during storage. Lift my entire cluster from the soil. You will notice that the original mother corm you planted may feel soft and spent, and attached to it are several new, firm daughter corms—my progeny for the next year. These are your future plants.
After lifting, gently brush off the loose soil but do not wash me. Water at this stage is detrimental. I must be cured. Place me, with my foliage still attached, in a single layer in a warm, dry, and airy location with excellent ventilation, out of direct sunlight. This curing process, which should last for about one to three weeks, allows my outer layers to dry and toughen into a protective papery tunic. It also allows any remaining moisture within my tissues to evaporate slowly and safely. Once the foliage is completely crispy and pulls away easily, you can remove it. Any remaining soil should now easily fall off.
My natural dormancy in the wild would occur in dry summer soil. You must replicate these conditions precisely. Please place my cured corms in a breathable medium; peat moss, vermiculite, or dry sand are ideal choices. Pack them loosely so air can circulate. Alternatively, you can place them in a mesh bag or a paper bag with ventilation holes. The absolute key to my survival is a cool, dark, and, most importantly, dry environment. Ideal temperatures are between 50-60°F (10-15°C). Any humidity or moisture will trigger premature rot or mold, depleting my stored energy and killing me. Check on me periodically throughout the winter to ensure I remain firm and dry.
My internal biological clock will tell me when dormancy is breaking. As daylight increases and temperatures slowly rise in late winter or early spring, I will be ready to sense the environmental cues for growth again. When it is time to plant, you may notice small buds or slight swelling—signs that my stored energy is mobilizing. This is the successful conclusion of your preservation efforts, allowing me to complete my perennial cycle and begin a new season of growth, powered entirely by the energy you helped me save.
