As a Grevillea, I am a proud member of the Proteaceae family, a lineage known for our complex and sensitive root systems. The thought of being moved fills me with a deep, biological anxiety. My survival is not guaranteed, but if you must undertake this task, it must be done with the utmost respect for my nature. Success depends on mimicking the conditions I have evolved to expect.
The single most important factor for my survival is when you choose to move me. My roots are actively growing when the soil is warm and moist, but the scorching heat of summer is too stressful. The ideal window is in the late autumn or very early spring. At this time, the soil retains warmth from the passing season, encouraging root regeneration, while the air is cool, which drastically reduces the water stress on my foliage. This gives me a precious few months to re-establish my root system before the extreme temperatures of summer or winter set in. Transplanting me in the peak of summer is a death sentence, as my damaged roots cannot uptake enough water to support my leaves.
Do not just dig me up on a whim. Several weeks in advance, you must prepare me. Begin by pruning my canopy back by about one-third. This may seem harsh, but it is a necessary survival tactic. With fewer leaves, I will lose less water through transpiration, which is vital once my root system is compromised. More importantly, about 4-6 weeks before the move, use a sharp spade to slice vertically into the soil in a circle around my trunk, just inside the anticipated final root ball size. This severs the longer roots and forces me to produce a denser network of fine, fibrous roots closer to my base. These are the roots that will be most crucial for re-establishing myself in my new home.
On the day of the move, your goal is to extract me from the ground with as much of my root system intact and undisturbed as possible. Start digging your trench well outside the circle you cut earlier. My roots are not just anchors; they are a symbiotic ecosystem. Be prepared for a heavy root ball. The key is to keep the root ball completely intact. Do not shake the soil off or wash my roots. Once I am free from the ground, move me immediately to my new location. Do not let my roots dry out in the sun or wind, even for a few minutes. This is a critical trauma, and every second counts.
My new planting hole must be twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper. I must be planted at the exact same soil level I was growing at before. Planting too deep will cause my crown to rot. The soil in the hole should be identical to the native soil you dug me from; do not fill it with rich compost or manure. My roots are highly specialized and cannot tolerate high levels of phosphorus, which is common in many fertilizers. After placing me in the hole and backfilling, create a shallow berm of soil around the drip line to form a water basin. Water me in thoroughly with a seaweed solution to help with transplant shock, but then you must be careful. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy. My damaged roots are now highly susceptible to rot. Maintain this careful watering regime through the first full growing season until I show signs of strong new growth.
