As a Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrid, I am a proud member of the vast and diverse orchid family. My care is distinct from that of other common houseplants and even from other orchid types like Phalaenopsis. To help me thrive and produce my characteristic sprays of beautiful, long-lasting flowers, you must understand my needs from my perspective. Here is a detailed guide to my care.
I am a sun-loving plant, but I despise being scorched. In my natural habitat, I grow on trees where I receive bright, filtered light. For you, this translates to an east-facing window where I can bask in the gentle morning sun, or a south/west-facing window shielded by a sheer curtain. My leaves will tell you if the light is correct: a light olive green color is perfect. Dark green leaves mean I need more light, while reddish or yellow leaves indicate I am getting too much direct sun. I thrive in warm temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C - 29°C) during the day. To initiate my magnificent flower spikes, I require a noticeable drop in temperature at night, ideally around 55°F to 60°F (13°C - 15°C), for several weeks.
My watering needs change with my growth cycle and the seasons. I store water in my tall, cane-like pseudobulbs, making me moderately drought-tolerant, but I am not a cactus. During my active growth period in warmer months, water me thoroughly once the top inch of my potting medium feels dry. I love a good drench, allowing water to flow freely through my roots and out the drainage holes. However, I absolutely abhor sitting in soggy, waterlogged media, as this will quickly rot my roots. In cooler, darker months when my growth slows, you should significantly reduce watering, allowing me to become almost dry before watering again.
In the wild, I gather nutrients from the air, rain, and decaying matter around me. In your home, I rely on you for sustenance. During my active growth phase (typically spring and summer), feed me a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer (such as 20-20-20) at half-strength every other week. This gives me the energy to grow new canes and leaves. When I am about to bloom or am in bloom, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (like 10-30-20) to support flower development. In the late fall and winter, when I am resting, reduce feeding to once a month or stop altogether.
My roots are aerial in nature and demand excellent airflow. They are designed to cling to tree bark, not sit in soil. Therefore, a standard potting mix will suffocate and kill me. I require a very loose, fast-draining, and chunky medium, such as a blend of fir bark, sphagnum moss, and perlite. You should only consider repotting me every two to three years, or when my potting medium has broken down and become sour, or when I have clearly outgrown my pot. The best time to repot is when you see new root tips (bright green or white) emerging from the base of my newest cane, as this signals the start of an active growth period and I will establish myself quickly.
My flowering is my crowning glory, and it is triggered by a combination of maturity and environmental cues. The most critical factor is the cool night temperature mentioned earlier. If you can provide this in the autumn, I will be prompted to send up a flower spike from the top of a mature cane. Once the spike appears, you can return me to my normal warm spot. Please do not cut the old canes after the flowers fade, even if they look leafless. These pseudobulbs are my energy reserves, and I can often produce new flower spikes from the sides of these older canes in subsequent seasons.
