From our perspective as Dendrobium orchids, the process of repotting is a significant and stressful life event. It disrupts our root systems, our primary connection to the world, and forces us to adapt to a new environment. However, when done correctly and at the right time, it is a rejuvenating act that grants us renewed vigor and space to flourish. We communicate our needs through our physical state; a skilled gardener learns to interpret these signals.
We do not operate on a human calendar. Our need for repotting is dictated by our growth and the condition of our potting medium. Please observe us closely. You will know it is time when you see the following: First, our roots have completely filled the pot, often spilling over the edges or pushing the entire plant upwards. We are pot-bound, and our roots are competing for space and resources. Second, the potting mix has broken down. What was once a chunky, airy medium of bark has decomposed into a dense, soggy compost that suffocates our roots, retaining too much water and not enough air. This leads to root rot. Third, our growth habit has become unruly. Many new canes (pseudobulbs) have grown, and the plant is spilling far over the edge of the pot, becoming unstable. We typically need this attention every two to three years.
Before you begin, please prepare everything you need. This minimizes the time our sensitive roots are exposed to the air. You will require: a new pot that is only one size larger than our current one. We prefer to be slightly snug; an overly large pot holds too much moisture and can drown us. Ensure it has excellent drainage holes. Next, acquire fresh, high-quality orchid potting mix, specifically a coarse-grade fir bark or a bark mix. This provides the perfect balance of moisture retention and aeration our epiphytic roots crave. Sterilized pruning shears or sharp scissors are essential for removing dead material. Also, have a stake and clips ready for support, and optionally, a cinnamon powder (a natural fungicide) to dust on any cuts you make.
Handle us with care. Begin by watering us thoroughly a day before the repotting. This makes our roots more flexible and resilient. On the day, gently remove us from our current pot. This may require carefully squeezing the pot or using a tool to loosen the mix. Do not pull us by our canes. Once out, the next critical step is to remove the old potting medium. Soak our root ball in a basin of lukewarm water for about 10-20 minutes to help soften and dislodge the old bark. Gently tease the roots apart with your fingers.
Now, you must perform delicate surgery. With your sterilized shears, carefully cut away any dead or rotten roots. Healthy roots are firm and white or green with silvery velamen. Rotten roots are mushy, brown, and often hollow. Also, remove any leafless, shriveled old canes. Dust all the cuts with cinnamon to prevent fungal infection.
Place a layer of the new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot. Position us in the center, with the oldest canes towards the back and the new growth facing the direction you want us to grow. Gently spread our healthy roots over the mix. Then, carefully fill in around the roots with the new bark, tapping the pot to settle the mix. Do not pack it down tightly—our roots need air pockets. You may use a stake to anchor the plant for stability.
Immediately after this ordeal, we are vulnerable. Do not water us for about 7-10 days. This allows the root wounds to callus over and prevents rot. Instead, provide us with high humidity and place us in a location with bright, indirect light. You can mist our aerial roots and leaves lightly to prevent dehydration. After this initial period, you can resume your normal watering routine, allowing the potting mix to dry out almost completely between waterings. Hold off on fertilizing for at least a month to avoid burning our stressed roots.
