Greetings, aspiring gardener. From our roots to our fragrant flower spikes, we lavender plants have specific needs to thrive. When confined to a pot, these needs become even more critical. To help you succeed, here is a detailed guide from our perspective.
First, you must understand our relationship with moisture. We despise wet feet. Constantly soggy roots will lead to rot and our swift demise. Therefore, your choice of container is paramount. Select a pot that is at least 12-16 inches in diameter and has ample drainage holes—the more, the better. Terra-cotta pots are excellent as they are porous and allow the soil to dry more evenly. The growing medium is equally vital. Do not use dense garden soil. We require a loose, fast-draining potting mix. A good recipe is a base of standard potting soil amended generously with perlite, coarse sand, or small gravel. Aim for a mix that feels gritty and drains almost immediately when watered.
We are children of the sun. To produce strong stems, abundant foliage, and those iconic purple blooms, we need a tremendous amount of light. Please place our container in a location where we can bask in a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. A south-facing spot is usually ideal. Without sufficient light, we will become leggy, our growth will be weak, and our flowering will be sparse, if it happens at all. We will also be more susceptible to diseases. Think of the sun as our primary source of energy and vitality.
This is where many well-intentioned gardeners fail. Our watering needs change with the seasons. In our active growing season (spring and summer), you should water us deeply but infrequently. Wait until the top inch or two of the soil feels completely dry to the touch before providing a thorough soak. Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes, then do not water again until the soil has dried out. In winter, when our growth has slowed, we need even less water. Overwatering is a far greater threat to us than underwatering. When in doubt, it is always safer to err on the side of dryness.
We are not heavy feeders. In fact, too much fertilizer can lead to excessive, soft foliage with few flowers and a reduced fragrance. A light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or a compost tea in the early spring as we break dormancy is usually sufficient to support our growth for the entire season. More important than feeding is your practice of pruning. After our main summer bloom has faded, please give us a light trim, removing the spent flower spikes and shaping our foliage. Avoid cutting into the old, woody stems, as these may not regenerate. A second, lighter shaping in early spring will encourage bushy, compact new growth.
Depending on your climate, our pot may need protection during the cold months. While our roots are somewhat hardy in the ground, they are vulnerable in a container. Freezing temperatures can damage or kill the root ball. In regions with cold, wet winters, consider moving our pot to a sheltered location, such as against a south-facing wall, into an unheated garage, or by wrapping the container with burlap or horticultural fleece. The goal is to keep the roots dormant and dry, not to keep the plant warm and growing.
